Tallinn's newest art museum. Unbelievable. Big spacious galleries, amazing architecture nestled in a quiet park. This afternoon couldn't have been more perfect for me. I spent a couple of hours of roaming through this amazing museum. There were two exhibits that were remarkable: 1. A room full of busts. Full of them. Up the walls, and about 50 others on glass pedestals in the center of the room. Striking, different, memorable. 2. A temporary exhibit of hundreds of speakers, all on re-bar legs, playing white music in a wave like pattern. the mess of speakers, stands, and wires, coupled with the wave sounds was pretty amazing.
The other part of this art museum is housed in an old chruch in the old town. Old churches serving as museums is one of the coolest things I think I have seen. I have seen two of them, and each time I am impressed and awed. The feature of this particular place was a "Dancing with Death" painting that came with subtitles! Basically it was death telling the Pope, Emperor, King, Bishop, and Empress about what will happen when the follow death. Pretty cool stuff. Always makes you worry about your karma.
See below for how I spent the morning.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Tallinn's Towers
Tallinn's old city is dominated by several different towers on churches, etc. Today, because it was sunny, I decided to tackle Tallinn's towers. I figured I needed a workout. For the most part you travel up to the towers around centuries old spiral staircases where rope has been added as a handrail. From the top of each one, you got a slightly different view of the city, and of the people below. I am not sure what it is that makes people want to climb towers, but I do like to view things from above. I have learned over the years that pictures taken from a tower (or other high viewing type platform) are not very interesting cityscapes of roofs and a few other distinguishable sights.
But I guess I am a slow student. Once I have made my way up the narrow twisted steps, avoiding the people coming down, and not tripping up the uneven stairs, I am rewarded with amazing views of a city. I guess somewhere in there I want to take that view, the accomplishment of climbing, with me. I want to capture the image. I know that these pictures never quite capture this image in my head. They haven't for me over the years. Did that stop me? Nope. I clicked away with the best of them today. Maybe not the best pictures for others to look at, but I hope that they help me remember the beautiful day, the amazing scenery and the warm sun.
But I guess I am a slow student. Once I have made my way up the narrow twisted steps, avoiding the people coming down, and not tripping up the uneven stairs, I am rewarded with amazing views of a city. I guess somewhere in there I want to take that view, the accomplishment of climbing, with me. I want to capture the image. I know that these pictures never quite capture this image in my head. They haven't for me over the years. Did that stop me? Nope. I clicked away with the best of them today. Maybe not the best pictures for others to look at, but I hope that they help me remember the beautiful day, the amazing scenery and the warm sun.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Dancing in Tallinn
I made my way back to the mainland today and all the way to my last stop, Tallinn. Tallinn has a reputation from some of being the most beautiful of the three Baltic capitals. I think that all three are actually very different, although Tallinn is pretty remarkable. It has about 2 km of its original Medieval Walls. It also has northern Europe's oldest town hall. It really is a pretty amazing place. Lots of churches and lots of history. It was a bit more Russified then the other capitals as well. I spent the rainy day exploring some of the sights, seeing some cool churches and visiting some shops. I had planned to go to some of the museums today, but alas, it appears in Estonia, museums are closed on Tuesdays, not Mondays (like in most other cities).
Tallinn is in the middle of a dance festival right now and there are free events from noted choreographers from around the city. Today I think I saw the weirdest dance/performance art that I have ever witnessed. In the main square, in front of all the cafes and the old 800 year old Town Hall, there was a back hoe. It was there all day and I figured that there must be some sort of construction happening. Well, actually it was a character in this dance. Apparently the male dancer, fell in love with the backhoe, drama ensued and then one of them died. I am not really a good interpreter of dance really, but to be honest, it was the weirdest thing imaginable. At one point he kissed the shovel of the back hoe for a while! He swung from it, stood on it, you can't beleive it. All set to opera. At the end, there was a rousing applause and the guy (and back hoe driver) seemed very very pleased. I can't wait to see what is on for tomorrow!
Tallinn is in the middle of a dance festival right now and there are free events from noted choreographers from around the city. Today I think I saw the weirdest dance/performance art that I have ever witnessed. In the main square, in front of all the cafes and the old 800 year old Town Hall, there was a back hoe. It was there all day and I figured that there must be some sort of construction happening. Well, actually it was a character in this dance. Apparently the male dancer, fell in love with the backhoe, drama ensued and then one of them died. I am not really a good interpreter of dance really, but to be honest, it was the weirdest thing imaginable. At one point he kissed the shovel of the back hoe for a while! He swung from it, stood on it, you can't beleive it. All set to opera. At the end, there was a rousing applause and the guy (and back hoe driver) seemed very very pleased. I can't wait to see what is on for tomorrow!
Monday, August 17, 2009
Commitment is Sometimes Good!
Although I checked the weather last night (the forecast was for rain all day), I planned to rent a bike today and see a bit of the island. When I woke up, there was some evidence of rain, it was overcast and breezy, but no actual rain. Buoyed by my recent success (or survival) in the Gauja National Park, I decided to stick with the plan. I got excited. I got organized. I packed my bag with my three traveling companions (Lonely Planet guidebook, journal, and book), along with some water, a hat, sunglasses, and my trusty LL Bean shell. Off I went!
First stop, (really committing) I paid for another night at the hostel. Stop 2: buy my bus ticket for tomorrow. Stop 3: Rent the bike...problem, I couldn't find the bike shop. Stop 4: Consult the map and decide it has to be around here somewhere. Stop 5: Bike shop!
I hop on my metal stalwart steed and we are off and riding for about say 3 minutes, when it starts to downpour. Shame. I dash back under the safety of an overhang and wait out the shower. It is too late to change plans, I am committed. I put on the jacket and head out on to the road. It is still raining a bit but better. I have a 15 mile ride to the Kaali Meteorite craters along the main thoroughfare on the island. I am keeping my spirits up and the rain spits a little but it is mostly dry. The crater was created by a meteor hitting the earth between 2500 and 7500 years ago. According to the museum the date is in dispute...I guess so! Have you ever seen a meteorite crater? It is basically a hole in the ground with some water. Sort of like a round pond. I waited out the next shower with a cappuchino and then I headed off to my second destination: Good Kaarma.
I figured I can always use some good karma and I would check this place out. This was probably about a 10 mile ride from the crater. This is a farm in the Kaarma region of the island that has turned into a handmade organic soap factory. Not really a factory, but a small place that makes soap by hand. It was very nice, as soon as I rode up I could smell the different scents that they use in soaps. With in a few minutes my olfactory senses were a bit overloaded. She showed my briefly about the process and then sold me some nice handmade soap. Since I was the only patron there, I declined the offer of coffee and jump back on my bike to head back to town. The ride back was good, (another 12 miles or so) and was all against the wind. I got a decent workout and once again learned to appreciate my bike back in Suffield. Well deciding to go to Good Kaarma and buying some soaps seemed to work, it didn't rain again all day. Eventually even the sun was peeking through the clouds.
I guess today I learned that if you stay committed, even if it doesn't look good you can have some happy results. Hows that for my philosophical moment of the day?
Tomorrow early bus to Tallinn, the final stop on my Baltic adventure.
First stop, (really committing) I paid for another night at the hostel. Stop 2: buy my bus ticket for tomorrow. Stop 3: Rent the bike...problem, I couldn't find the bike shop. Stop 4: Consult the map and decide it has to be around here somewhere. Stop 5: Bike shop!
I hop on my metal stalwart steed and we are off and riding for about say 3 minutes, when it starts to downpour. Shame. I dash back under the safety of an overhang and wait out the shower. It is too late to change plans, I am committed. I put on the jacket and head out on to the road. It is still raining a bit but better. I have a 15 mile ride to the Kaali Meteorite craters along the main thoroughfare on the island. I am keeping my spirits up and the rain spits a little but it is mostly dry. The crater was created by a meteor hitting the earth between 2500 and 7500 years ago. According to the museum the date is in dispute...I guess so! Have you ever seen a meteorite crater? It is basically a hole in the ground with some water. Sort of like a round pond. I waited out the next shower with a cappuchino and then I headed off to my second destination: Good Kaarma.
I figured I can always use some good karma and I would check this place out. This was probably about a 10 mile ride from the crater. This is a farm in the Kaarma region of the island that has turned into a handmade organic soap factory. Not really a factory, but a small place that makes soap by hand. It was very nice, as soon as I rode up I could smell the different scents that they use in soaps. With in a few minutes my olfactory senses were a bit overloaded. She showed my briefly about the process and then sold me some nice handmade soap. Since I was the only patron there, I declined the offer of coffee and jump back on my bike to head back to town. The ride back was good, (another 12 miles or so) and was all against the wind. I got a decent workout and once again learned to appreciate my bike back in Suffield. Well deciding to go to Good Kaarma and buying some soaps seemed to work, it didn't rain again all day. Eventually even the sun was peeking through the clouds.
I guess today I learned that if you stay committed, even if it doesn't look good you can have some happy results. Hows that for my philosophical moment of the day?
Tomorrow early bus to Tallinn, the final stop on my Baltic adventure.
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Calming Kuressaare
Sometimes plans work well. I had originally thought that I would get up early and check the bus departures and head to the beach for the morning and leave on an afternoon bus to Kuressaare on the island of Sarremaa. But when I woke up and saw the rain and clouds I decided that I would take the 10:30 bus and rolled over for another 90 minutes or so. It was such the right decision!
To get here, you need to take a bus, but the bus goes on a ferry. I don´t know if I have been on a ferry that takes cars in a long time. This one was cool. On one side the cars drive in, when the level is full it is on a big (huge) elevator, and it lifts them all up to reveal another similar deck just below! perfect. The bus drives on right to the front. At this point we must get off the bus to go into the ferry. I have a nice little pizza for lunch, a coke, and then it is time to get back on the bus to head into the town.
The hostel is actually a college dorm, so I have a double room to myself, which to be honest is sort of a pleasant surprise for $15/night. I will take it. The town is very small and is known for two things. The 800 year old castle/fortress and spas. I took in the castle today, avoided the rain by carefully timed cappuchinos, and enjoyed wandering around this small place. Even had a coffee in a windmill! Very nice. The plan for tomorrow is to rent a bike and explore the rest of the island. Hopefully the weather will hold out for me so that I can see a good bit of it. It is a very chill kind of place, just perfect for a break in the action. Or perhaps it is becuase of all the Spas. I guess if it rains too much tomorrow, I just might need to get a massage!
To get here, you need to take a bus, but the bus goes on a ferry. I don´t know if I have been on a ferry that takes cars in a long time. This one was cool. On one side the cars drive in, when the level is full it is on a big (huge) elevator, and it lifts them all up to reveal another similar deck just below! perfect. The bus drives on right to the front. At this point we must get off the bus to go into the ferry. I have a nice little pizza for lunch, a coke, and then it is time to get back on the bus to head into the town.
The hostel is actually a college dorm, so I have a double room to myself, which to be honest is sort of a pleasant surprise for $15/night. I will take it. The town is very small and is known for two things. The 800 year old castle/fortress and spas. I took in the castle today, avoided the rain by carefully timed cappuchinos, and enjoyed wandering around this small place. Even had a coffee in a windmill! Very nice. The plan for tomorrow is to rent a bike and explore the rest of the island. Hopefully the weather will hold out for me so that I can see a good bit of it. It is a very chill kind of place, just perfect for a break in the action. Or perhaps it is becuase of all the Spas. I guess if it rains too much tomorrow, I just might need to get a massage!
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Estonia-Lots of kroons
After what turned out to be a big night on the town in Riga (I suddenly looked at my watch and it was 4:00 am), The day was good. A two hour bus ride and I successfully made it across another border and into my fourth country (after the day in Helsinki) of this trip. I settled into the hostel fine as well. Apparently my new roommates had a big night as well as they were still sleeping at noon when I arrived!
The plan today was to be on the beach. Parnu is all about being a beach/resort destination. I figured after a day of rain, nothing like a day on the beach, unless it rains. The bus ride here was hot. The sun was beating into the windows of the bus. On the walk to the hostel, I could feel the sweat. I was happy. As I make it to the beach, I see the dark clouds lingering over head. They seem far off and I am not so worried about it. I walk along the beach it is nice. They have the changing spaces, the games, the lifeguards. They have everything that makes a nice beach experience. They even have a bit of thunder! the rain came briefly with the front that was moving through. It was breezy and cool, although only rained for a few minutes. After that, the sun came out for the afternoon. With the sun out, so came the Estonians! It turned out to be a great day on the beach. Tomorrow, I am going to spend the morning here in Parnu and then travel to Kurresaare.
This morning when I arrived, I exchanged money. I don't often exchange money anymore, I usually just use the ATM. I turned in 61 Latvian Lats and 10 Lithuanian Litas and in return I got 1300 Kroons! Everything is expensive in kroons, or it feels like it because the numbers are so big. A beer is 40 Kroons. Dinner was 145 Kroons. They have a 2 Kroon bill up through the 500 Kroon bill. Thankfully, not as many coins as in the last two countries! At least the exchange rate is easy to keep track of at 11 kroons to a dollar. I am just taking off a zero to keep it all straight!
The plan today was to be on the beach. Parnu is all about being a beach/resort destination. I figured after a day of rain, nothing like a day on the beach, unless it rains. The bus ride here was hot. The sun was beating into the windows of the bus. On the walk to the hostel, I could feel the sweat. I was happy. As I make it to the beach, I see the dark clouds lingering over head. They seem far off and I am not so worried about it. I walk along the beach it is nice. They have the changing spaces, the games, the lifeguards. They have everything that makes a nice beach experience. They even have a bit of thunder! the rain came briefly with the front that was moving through. It was breezy and cool, although only rained for a few minutes. After that, the sun came out for the afternoon. With the sun out, so came the Estonians! It turned out to be a great day on the beach. Tomorrow, I am going to spend the morning here in Parnu and then travel to Kurresaare.
This morning when I arrived, I exchanged money. I don't often exchange money anymore, I usually just use the ATM. I turned in 61 Latvian Lats and 10 Lithuanian Litas and in return I got 1300 Kroons! Everything is expensive in kroons, or it feels like it because the numbers are so big. A beer is 40 Kroons. Dinner was 145 Kroons. They have a 2 Kroon bill up through the 500 Kroon bill. Thankfully, not as many coins as in the last two countries! At least the exchange rate is easy to keep track of at 11 kroons to a dollar. I am just taking off a zero to keep it all straight!
Friday, August 14, 2009
Castles in the (thunder) Clouds
Today was the day to explore Gauja National Park and Sigulda. I had checked the weather. Rain all day. I was undaunted. I stuck to the plan. Wow. I got wet. Soaked through by 10:00 am. You know it's gonna be rough at that point.
Sigulda is "gateway" to the Gauja Park and only an hour train ride from Riga. It is a great place pick up some trails and see four of the most important sites of the river valley. I had a great plan. There was about a 10k walk to the different sites, including a cable car ride! So I went for it. I brought my LL Bean shell and my Colby baseball cap and walked. At first I was ok. As the rain came harder, I was further away from shelter. What do you do at that point? Keep walking. I went the panorama square to look at the clouds in the valley. I walked to the old and new Sigulda castles. I found my way to the cable car. Brief respite from the rain. Walked to the Krimulda estate and castle ruins. Walked down the cliff stairs. A brief break in the rain. Hallelujah! I rejoiced! I dripped. I smiled. I saw the Gutmanala Cave (the largest sandstone cave in the Baltics, all carved up with 200 year old graffitti). It sprinkled a little bit. I stayed the course. It rained again, but buoyed by the dry spell, I was walking and determined to see the best of the three the "fairy tale like" Turaida Castle and grounds. I hiked back up the cliff. I made it to the castle grounds. The sun came out. I smiled. And rejoiced again. I spent the next hour or so on the manor and castle grounds. Although mostly restored, this castle is 800 years old. Pretty amazing. I saw the museum, read all the plaques, and basically enjoyed the sunny weather, began to dry out and was content. The trip, the walk, the wetness, was all worth it to be at this place. I climbed the "Main Tower" the highest point to see the beautiful vistas! Then...what was that I heard? Thunder? What? No! NO! Shame. Yes. Thunder again. Then rain. And more rain. I wait. It lightens a bit, so I leave, get a couple of quick pictures and then wander the grounds to look at the sculpture gardens before heading back to Sigulda.
The highlight of my trip was going to be a wheeled luge down the Soviet (then Russian) bobsled training facility in Sigulda. It was going to be great. Fast, lots of adrenaline. Two things: 1. Only open on the weekends. 2. Not running in the rain. Shame, again. The rain stopped and I decided to have lunch at a place called Elvi! I was expecting to see several Elvis impersonators, you know plural. The sun came out for a while as i was jumping on the train back to Riga.
While it was a wet day, I saw some amazing 800 year old castles, took a cable car ride, and hiked. But you know what? I am in Latvia. So wet or dry, it is still pretty awesome! Today will certainly be memorable and isn't that what traveling is all about?
Sigulda is "gateway" to the Gauja Park and only an hour train ride from Riga. It is a great place pick up some trails and see four of the most important sites of the river valley. I had a great plan. There was about a 10k walk to the different sites, including a cable car ride! So I went for it. I brought my LL Bean shell and my Colby baseball cap and walked. At first I was ok. As the rain came harder, I was further away from shelter. What do you do at that point? Keep walking. I went the panorama square to look at the clouds in the valley. I walked to the old and new Sigulda castles. I found my way to the cable car. Brief respite from the rain. Walked to the Krimulda estate and castle ruins. Walked down the cliff stairs. A brief break in the rain. Hallelujah! I rejoiced! I dripped. I smiled. I saw the Gutmanala Cave (the largest sandstone cave in the Baltics, all carved up with 200 year old graffitti). It sprinkled a little bit. I stayed the course. It rained again, but buoyed by the dry spell, I was walking and determined to see the best of the three the "fairy tale like" Turaida Castle and grounds. I hiked back up the cliff. I made it to the castle grounds. The sun came out. I smiled. And rejoiced again. I spent the next hour or so on the manor and castle grounds. Although mostly restored, this castle is 800 years old. Pretty amazing. I saw the museum, read all the plaques, and basically enjoyed the sunny weather, began to dry out and was content. The trip, the walk, the wetness, was all worth it to be at this place. I climbed the "Main Tower" the highest point to see the beautiful vistas! Then...what was that I heard? Thunder? What? No! NO! Shame. Yes. Thunder again. Then rain. And more rain. I wait. It lightens a bit, so I leave, get a couple of quick pictures and then wander the grounds to look at the sculpture gardens before heading back to Sigulda.
The highlight of my trip was going to be a wheeled luge down the Soviet (then Russian) bobsled training facility in Sigulda. It was going to be great. Fast, lots of adrenaline. Two things: 1. Only open on the weekends. 2. Not running in the rain. Shame, again. The rain stopped and I decided to have lunch at a place called Elvi! I was expecting to see several Elvis impersonators, you know plural. The sun came out for a while as i was jumping on the train back to Riga.
While it was a wet day, I saw some amazing 800 year old castles, took a cable car ride, and hiked. But you know what? I am in Latvia. So wet or dry, it is still pretty awesome! Today will certainly be memorable and isn't that what traveling is all about?
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Jurmala--The Latvian Riviera
Today was my day to spend on the Latvian version of the Riviera, Jurmala. When I got up the weather looked good. On the train there, the weather looked good. As soon as I got there, the rain came. At first is was just sprinkling into a steady yet light rain. They a brief downpour. Then the rain stopped and it stayed cloudy and overcast. Since I had traveled out to the beach i decided to take a walk down the miles and miles of sand. It was a day my mother would have loved. A bit cloudy, but not too many people on the beach and you can walk for miles in the sand and water. The rain started again lightly, but I was determined to enjoy the beach. And I did. It was great. Perhaps a bit solitary, but nice. And calming. I walked for about two hours, through intermittent rain. Still worth it. I went back to town to have something to eat and a cup of coffee. While I was there, the clouds cleared. While the day never turned out to be a warm and sunny beach day, the second walk on the beach in the sun was well worth the wait.
Jurmala is actually a collection of towns that line this stretch of beach which has been famous for years as a hotspot to go for some beach time. it is a favorite resort town for many people in the Baltics and Russia. The town sort of grew up in the early 1900s and maintains some of that charm, with unique old homes lining all the streets and a main avenue full of shops and restaurants. Much like all sleepy beach towns, it was "discovered" and became a resort location for many. What is so nice is that the beach is not lined with high rise apartments, but pine trees. There are a couple hotels but not many. There are tons of cafes, each that rent paddle boats, volleyball nets, sell coffee, beer, and snacks. I could imagine on a hot weekend day, the place crawling with people covering the beach. Even the town's energy picked up as soon as the weather got a bit nicer.
Tomorrow is the other extreme. I am heading to Guaja National Park and the town of Sigulda for some hiking in the forest!
Jurmala is actually a collection of towns that line this stretch of beach which has been famous for years as a hotspot to go for some beach time. it is a favorite resort town for many people in the Baltics and Russia. The town sort of grew up in the early 1900s and maintains some of that charm, with unique old homes lining all the streets and a main avenue full of shops and restaurants. Much like all sleepy beach towns, it was "discovered" and became a resort location for many. What is so nice is that the beach is not lined with high rise apartments, but pine trees. There are a couple hotels but not many. There are tons of cafes, each that rent paddle boats, volleyball nets, sell coffee, beer, and snacks. I could imagine on a hot weekend day, the place crawling with people covering the beach. Even the town's energy picked up as soon as the weather got a bit nicer.
Tomorrow is the other extreme. I am heading to Guaja National Park and the town of Sigulda for some hiking in the forest!
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Soviets and Latvians
Today it rained. I was a little sad. I had bought a ticket to go to the top of one of the church spires to see views of the city. I picked the moment that the rain and wind decided to lash out! It was wet and cold, though the promised views were there! I spent quite a bit of time at the Museum of the Occupation. it reaffirmed my post from yesterday. It is pretty intense to have your country occupied. More intense that they make up the rules. And worse that the rest of the world knows it is happening to you. I once again was a bit confused about how I felt about supporting countries whose sovereignty has been challenged by another. it is an awkward position for all involved. More distressing was that I am continuing to learn about how dominating and intimidating the USSR was. Wow. Stalin and others weren't really nice guys at all. The hardest part: You are a happy Latvian who is forced to participate in the Nazi army during the war, then the USSR says you were a Nazi sympathizer and sends you to Siberia. You might just have been trying to survive. It is intense!
The rest of the day was just exploring the city. I found out one of the traditional Latvian dishes is dumpling. Who cares what is in them, I love dumplings. They made my day. Overall...great day in the city.
The rest of the day was just exploring the city. I found out one of the traditional Latvian dishes is dumpling. Who cares what is in them, I love dumplings. They made my day. Overall...great day in the city.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Everything is Old
What is amazing to me on this trip is how old everything is. There are cities that are 800 years old with people who have been living here for two millenia. That is impressive. I guess when everything is so old it needs to be restored periodically. That is what seems to have happened in Latvia. All the old churches have either burned down, or crumbled, for just gotten face lifts over the years. So while you have an 800 year old church, the version you are now looking at is about 150 years old, because over the past few centuries they have pulled off the old walls and built new ones. They may have removed all the grave stones (because they aren't using it as a crypt any more). They are restoring the organ for the third or fourth time. It is truly amazing how old some places are and everything in Riga, Latvia is old. Or restored.
This trip has made more more clear to me the impact of the Soviet Union on all the republics that made it up. I don't think that I truly understood the devastation of culture that was brought on by the Soviets and the Cold War. They didn't like something, they tore it down. They didn't like you, they either killed you or sent you to Siberia. Add to that the Nazis, and you can see why Eastern Europe, and these countries in particular fought for their independence. In an act of defiance and nationalism, there was a 650 km human chain of more then two million people from Tallinn to Vilnius. So much of the architecture wasn't destroyed by WWII but by the Soviets if they didn't like it, or it didn't represent the "right ideals". Luckily, many of these cities are building replicas of everything that they had.
I did a walking tour of Riga today and then wandered a bit. I will spend the day tomorrow exploring Riga and then decide where to go from there! Oh yeah, my dorm room in a very highly recommended hostel? Yeah, it smells a bit like vomit. Shame.
This trip has made more more clear to me the impact of the Soviet Union on all the republics that made it up. I don't think that I truly understood the devastation of culture that was brought on by the Soviets and the Cold War. They didn't like something, they tore it down. They didn't like you, they either killed you or sent you to Siberia. Add to that the Nazis, and you can see why Eastern Europe, and these countries in particular fought for their independence. In an act of defiance and nationalism, there was a 650 km human chain of more then two million people from Tallinn to Vilnius. So much of the architecture wasn't destroyed by WWII but by the Soviets if they didn't like it, or it didn't represent the "right ideals". Luckily, many of these cities are building replicas of everything that they had.
I did a walking tour of Riga today and then wandered a bit. I will spend the day tomorrow exploring Riga and then decide where to go from there! Oh yeah, my dorm room in a very highly recommended hostel? Yeah, it smells a bit like vomit. Shame.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Soaking up the Sun on the Spit
I made my way to Klaipeda so that I would be able to see the Baltic from all three countries. Plus, I heard that the beaches on the Curonian Spit were supposed to be amazing. This morning, I got off to a good start and was up and ready to head out of the hostel early. I have to say that I am glad that I spent all those years sleeping on an old and flat futon mattress, it left me in good stead to deal with what I had last night! (The benches at the beach were more comfortable!)
Planning to take in some of the sites in Klaipeda as I wandered down to the ferry to the Spit, I was realized it was Monday. Monday means that museums are closed. There isn't too much to do here, and I had wanted to go to a clock museum in the town. Then I was planning to hit the Klaipeda Castle Museum. Shame. So I stopped for a nice breakfast and coffee, did a little shopping with the amber hawkers, and then took the ferry across to this little strip of land, The Curonian Spit. It is mostly a national park throughout the whole piece of land with a couple of small towns. It has been saved from being completely washed out to sea by the reforestation of pine trees covering a major portion of the place (during the 1700s). You walk through pine forests and you find your self on a long wide white sand beach. Preserving the Spit is an important environmental project in this part of Lithuania. The water has a smaller percentage of salt in it then in most of the world; you don't feel that sticky beach feeling when you get out of the water. It was actually quite nice. I stayed out there until about 8:00pm. Remember it doesn't get dark until 10:00!
Interesting about this this beach is that there are special and specific places for people. There is the mixed beach (for men, women, and families), the men's beach, the nudist's beach (again, for men, women, and families), and the women's beach. They cover about 2 km of beach in that order. I am sure that there are some repeat designations after that. Also interesting to note, that for the single gender beaches, most people were also sun bathing in their birthday suits. No one seemed to mind that there was a bit of cross-over from one beach to the next, and that the cross-overs were naked. No one seemed to mind walking their little kids through the other beaches. I was particularly surprised at the number of families enjoying their day in the sun at the nudist beach. Whole families playing in the buff! I spent a bit of time on each of the three beaches I was allowed; I respectfully let the women have their own beach). Each had its own vibe and was unique for sharing the same sand. I came away a bit more brown then when I left and enjoyed the day in the sun!
Tomorrow, I am heading to Latvia. Still not sure which route I am taking...game time decision in the morning!
Planning to take in some of the sites in Klaipeda as I wandered down to the ferry to the Spit, I was realized it was Monday. Monday means that museums are closed. There isn't too much to do here, and I had wanted to go to a clock museum in the town. Then I was planning to hit the Klaipeda Castle Museum. Shame. So I stopped for a nice breakfast and coffee, did a little shopping with the amber hawkers, and then took the ferry across to this little strip of land, The Curonian Spit. It is mostly a national park throughout the whole piece of land with a couple of small towns. It has been saved from being completely washed out to sea by the reforestation of pine trees covering a major portion of the place (during the 1700s). You walk through pine forests and you find your self on a long wide white sand beach. Preserving the Spit is an important environmental project in this part of Lithuania. The water has a smaller percentage of salt in it then in most of the world; you don't feel that sticky beach feeling when you get out of the water. It was actually quite nice. I stayed out there until about 8:00pm. Remember it doesn't get dark until 10:00!
Interesting about this this beach is that there are special and specific places for people. There is the mixed beach (for men, women, and families), the men's beach, the nudist's beach (again, for men, women, and families), and the women's beach. They cover about 2 km of beach in that order. I am sure that there are some repeat designations after that. Also interesting to note, that for the single gender beaches, most people were also sun bathing in their birthday suits. No one seemed to mind that there was a bit of cross-over from one beach to the next, and that the cross-overs were naked. No one seemed to mind walking their little kids through the other beaches. I was particularly surprised at the number of families enjoying their day in the sun at the nudist beach. Whole families playing in the buff! I spent a bit of time on each of the three beaches I was allowed; I respectfully let the women have their own beach). Each had its own vibe and was unique for sharing the same sand. I came away a bit more brown then when I left and enjoyed the day in the sun!
Tomorrow, I am heading to Latvia. Still not sure which route I am taking...game time decision in the morning!
Sunday, August 09, 2009
Crosses, Crosswalks, and Cemeteries
Today couldn't have been better!
I moved on from Vilnius to Siauliai for the day. I took the 9:00 train and arrived in Siauliai at about 11:45, stored my bag and then made my way to the tourist info center. I talked with the tourist office and learned I had just enough time to rent a bike and get to the Hill of Crosses and back before the tourist office closed. They recommend about three hours, and the office closed at 3:00!
First, the bike. Perhaps I have been spoiled lately riding my road bike. After a bit of training this spring and summer, I have come to appreciate a few things about it, that I think should come standard on all bikes. 1. There should be gears. For the first 15 km or so, I didn't think it had any gears. Well my mistake, it had three. They really could be called, easy, medium, and hard. 2. My feet kept flying off the pedals. No clip in shoes here. 3. Brakes. There was a back brake that squeaked, but my favorite aspect of the bike was the fact that if you pedaled backwards, it also braked. A throwback to my younger days. The kicker of the whole experience (besides the ridiculously low and unmovable seat) was that this was what would be considered a woman's bike. Shame. Honestly, though, it was a beautiful day to be riding in the Lithuanian countryside on a bike. Hands down, a great afternoon.
The forty minute ride to the Hill of Crosses on the bike was well worth the trip. It is unbelievable. Hundreds of thousands of crosses placed on this hill. Big ones, tiny ones, crosses of wood, crosses of metal, ornate crosses, simple crosses. All were on the Hill. You can't believe the numbers. They are tied to other crosses, they are stuck in the ground. It is really amazing. Overall, the hill has been an important/sacred place for Lithuanians for hundreds of years. They first crosses were planted during the eighteenth century. They were all taken out by the Soviets when they took control of Lithuania in the 50s. People replaced crosses, and they were removed systemically four times during the Soviet Occupation. Since independence, this hill and its surroundings have become a Holy place and a monastery was built here. Striking about the monastery chapel was that there was no crucifix. Just a simple wall of glass behind the altar which looked over the hill. I, too, placed a cross on the hill in remembrance of my four grandparents.
I spent the rest of the day wandering around the city. I saw another church, I sat by a lake and wrote in my journal, and I read my book while sipping some cappuchino. It was really a great afternoon. One of the things I saw was this cemetery. What was amazing about it was the way people were buried in a haphazard way, while at the same time being very tightly packed. The cemetary was overgrown and individual plots were being taken car of. it was very shady and damp, but truly amazing in the way that people were packed in. Above each grave, there was a cement kind of border, and people were able to plant flowers, etc. for individuals. I think the newest grave I found was from the 1950s...and some plots were meticulously maintained. interesting to see the two extremes side by side.
The thing about crosswalks is that everyone waits for the lights to tell them to walk. There may be no cars in sight, but people are waiting on the street corners. At 2:00 am on the way back from the bars with no cars around, people are waiting for the green walking man to guide them safely across the street. It is such a funny, but safe, thing to see. Oh yeah, the second part of this? The cars will always stop for people in the crosswalks. If you put your foot on the street a car will pause. The pedestrian deaths here must be really low!
Tonight I made it to Klaipeda. Spend the day here and at the beach! I think Tuesday I am off to Riga.
I moved on from Vilnius to Siauliai for the day. I took the 9:00 train and arrived in Siauliai at about 11:45, stored my bag and then made my way to the tourist info center. I talked with the tourist office and learned I had just enough time to rent a bike and get to the Hill of Crosses and back before the tourist office closed. They recommend about three hours, and the office closed at 3:00!
First, the bike. Perhaps I have been spoiled lately riding my road bike. After a bit of training this spring and summer, I have come to appreciate a few things about it, that I think should come standard on all bikes. 1. There should be gears. For the first 15 km or so, I didn't think it had any gears. Well my mistake, it had three. They really could be called, easy, medium, and hard. 2. My feet kept flying off the pedals. No clip in shoes here. 3. Brakes. There was a back brake that squeaked, but my favorite aspect of the bike was the fact that if you pedaled backwards, it also braked. A throwback to my younger days. The kicker of the whole experience (besides the ridiculously low and unmovable seat) was that this was what would be considered a woman's bike. Shame. Honestly, though, it was a beautiful day to be riding in the Lithuanian countryside on a bike. Hands down, a great afternoon.
The forty minute ride to the Hill of Crosses on the bike was well worth the trip. It is unbelievable. Hundreds of thousands of crosses placed on this hill. Big ones, tiny ones, crosses of wood, crosses of metal, ornate crosses, simple crosses. All were on the Hill. You can't believe the numbers. They are tied to other crosses, they are stuck in the ground. It is really amazing. Overall, the hill has been an important/sacred place for Lithuanians for hundreds of years. They first crosses were planted during the eighteenth century. They were all taken out by the Soviets when they took control of Lithuania in the 50s. People replaced crosses, and they were removed systemically four times during the Soviet Occupation. Since independence, this hill and its surroundings have become a Holy place and a monastery was built here. Striking about the monastery chapel was that there was no crucifix. Just a simple wall of glass behind the altar which looked over the hill. I, too, placed a cross on the hill in remembrance of my four grandparents.
I spent the rest of the day wandering around the city. I saw another church, I sat by a lake and wrote in my journal, and I read my book while sipping some cappuchino. It was really a great afternoon. One of the things I saw was this cemetery. What was amazing about it was the way people were buried in a haphazard way, while at the same time being very tightly packed. The cemetary was overgrown and individual plots were being taken car of. it was very shady and damp, but truly amazing in the way that people were packed in. Above each grave, there was a cement kind of border, and people were able to plant flowers, etc. for individuals. I think the newest grave I found was from the 1950s...and some plots were meticulously maintained. interesting to see the two extremes side by side.
The thing about crosswalks is that everyone waits for the lights to tell them to walk. There may be no cars in sight, but people are waiting on the street corners. At 2:00 am on the way back from the bars with no cars around, people are waiting for the green walking man to guide them safely across the street. It is such a funny, but safe, thing to see. Oh yeah, the second part of this? The cars will always stop for people in the crosswalks. If you put your foot on the street a car will pause. The pedestrian deaths here must be really low!
Tonight I made it to Klaipeda. Spend the day here and at the beach! I think Tuesday I am off to Riga.
Saturday, August 08, 2009
Wedding Fever
It seems this weekend is a popular one to get married! Yesterday, Friday, I was wandering around the old town of Vilnius. As previously mentioned, there were a lot of churches. I saw three weddings. I figured that it was strange it was a Friday, but I chalked it up to cultural differences. It made sense, there were so many churches. I thought it was nice, too, that the churches were not closed for the weddings, anyone could attend/watch!
Today, I headed out of Vilnius for a day trip to Trakai. This small town that is dominated by two castles, one on an island and the other on the peninsula. It has been restored and it was striking and very beautiful. I did a nice long walk from the train station to the castle, around the town a bit, then I toured the castle. What I couldn't believe was the number of weddings! I saw NINE weddings. Not actually happening, but all were there to take pictures. The entire wedding party, posing in front of the castle and moat, with hundreds of tourists looking on! August 8 must have good omens or something. It was pretty interesting to watch it all happening.
Tomorrow I have a big day planned. First, train to Siaulai, store the pack, rent a bike and ride 12 km to The Hill of Crosses, ride back, take either a bus or train to Klaipeda and then hit the beach!
Today, I headed out of Vilnius for a day trip to Trakai. This small town that is dominated by two castles, one on an island and the other on the peninsula. It has been restored and it was striking and very beautiful. I did a nice long walk from the train station to the castle, around the town a bit, then I toured the castle. What I couldn't believe was the number of weddings! I saw NINE weddings. Not actually happening, but all were there to take pictures. The entire wedding party, posing in front of the castle and moat, with hundreds of tourists looking on! August 8 must have good omens or something. It was pretty interesting to watch it all happening.
Tomorrow I have a big day planned. First, train to Siaulai, store the pack, rent a bike and ride 12 km to The Hill of Crosses, ride back, take either a bus or train to Klaipeda and then hit the beach!
Friday, August 07, 2009
A City of Churches
I grew up Catholic. In fact, I went to church every weekend growing up. I went to a catholic high school. I went to church all through college and even after for about eight years. I am no stranger to the inside of a church. I can appreciate the beauty of the columns and spires of a gothic cathedral, or the over the topic decoration of a baroque church or even the simple beauty of a classical building.
Vilnius is over run with Churches. This city is famous for its architecture. It has a variety of styles all throughout the city. In fact, many of the buildings were destroyed and rebuilt a number of times. I guess that happens when the city is at least 700 years old. Most of the sites here in Vilnius are churches. Literally, it felt like on every corner there was a church and the guide books are full of descriptions of the churches. I started my day (a bit late) at the Cathedral. While impressive for the scale and the square, I was more impressed with many of the smaller churches along the way. St Ann's gothic brick church. St Bernadines, originally gothic, then destroyed, now baroque church. St John's which is hidden inside the University. The Orthodox cathedral, St Michael's, St Casimir's etc. there were a lot of chruches to be seen. And I saw them. (Not all, but many). My question is though, how many prayers can one guy say in a day?
Tomorrow is a day trip to Trakai...
Vilnius is over run with Churches. This city is famous for its architecture. It has a variety of styles all throughout the city. In fact, many of the buildings were destroyed and rebuilt a number of times. I guess that happens when the city is at least 700 years old. Most of the sites here in Vilnius are churches. Literally, it felt like on every corner there was a church and the guide books are full of descriptions of the churches. I started my day (a bit late) at the Cathedral. While impressive for the scale and the square, I was more impressed with many of the smaller churches along the way. St Ann's gothic brick church. St Bernadines, originally gothic, then destroyed, now baroque church. St John's which is hidden inside the University. The Orthodox cathedral, St Michael's, St Casimir's etc. there were a lot of chruches to be seen. And I saw them. (Not all, but many). My question is though, how many prayers can one guy say in a day?
Tomorrow is a day trip to Trakai...
Thursday, August 06, 2009
Nothing Went Right, All Was Great
My trip got off to a fateful start. I was hoping that it wasn't a bad omen for the Baltics! I was late getting to the bus station. No real worries, because knowing myself I built in some extra time. I went to purchase my ticket (that I had checked and double checked online) to find out that the bus to Logan wasn't direct, left a bit later, had a 40 minute layover and change at South Station! Fine, I was still to have plenty of time. I decide to have McDonald's for lunch, but the line wasn't moving. I finally got a coffee and jumped on the bus. I arrive in Boston only to find that the bus to Logan wasn't listed on the monitors and the Help Desk seemed to be on a break. To avoid my own stress (at having to rush) I decided to take the new Silver T-line to the airport. I was excited because I didn't even know it existed! I guess it was part of the Big Dig. Anyway the Silver line is a bus line that is both electric and gas. Pretty cool and really easy from South Station. Definitely the right move. I got the airport with plenty of time for a quick chair massage to start the trip off right!
Finnair. Wow. I was thinking this might be like Thai Air, or British Air. It was sadly, more like US Air. We boarded late, I guess there were problems with the plane, we ended up leaving about 90 minutes late. I had a hard time sleeping but I did get to see a baseball movie, High School Musical, and Baby Mama. Needless to say, we didn't get to choose our movies! We arrived in Helsinki and I had missed my connection. I, of course, had issues at security. (No worries, I held my tongue.)I got a pat down and feel up, and they took my soda. Shame. Finnair redeemed itself and gave me a 17 Euro voucher for food at the airport and a whole day in Helsinki. Bonus! I had planned a couple of days here in Vilnius but frankly was pretty psyched to be able to spend the day in Helsinki. I even took a ferry out to a massive armed fortress in the harbor.
Back to the airport, back on the plane. I landed in Vilnius, Lithuania, with no problems and my bags. I finally found the money change place, although I got impatient so I went to the ATM. I waited too long for the money changer so I missed the train to the city. I ended up taking the bus, but of course didn't have any money small enough to pay the fare. After trying to pay with big Lithuanian Litus, then with Euros, then with Dollars, the driver finally was too exasperated to try to talk to me anymore! I got the trip for free. Living up to the stereotype of a dumb American tourist.
The hostel is fine, although I couldn't get my laptop to connect to the internet. I will continue to work on that. All in all, a pretty typical travel day with a bunch of ups and downs, but honestly, everything was pretty smooth and I got a bonus trip to Helsinki, Finland! Gotta love it.
Finnair. Wow. I was thinking this might be like Thai Air, or British Air. It was sadly, more like US Air. We boarded late, I guess there were problems with the plane, we ended up leaving about 90 minutes late. I had a hard time sleeping but I did get to see a baseball movie, High School Musical, and Baby Mama. Needless to say, we didn't get to choose our movies! We arrived in Helsinki and I had missed my connection. I, of course, had issues at security. (No worries, I held my tongue.)I got a pat down and feel up, and they took my soda. Shame. Finnair redeemed itself and gave me a 17 Euro voucher for food at the airport and a whole day in Helsinki. Bonus! I had planned a couple of days here in Vilnius but frankly was pretty psyched to be able to spend the day in Helsinki. I even took a ferry out to a massive armed fortress in the harbor.
Back to the airport, back on the plane. I landed in Vilnius, Lithuania, with no problems and my bags. I finally found the money change place, although I got impatient so I went to the ATM. I waited too long for the money changer so I missed the train to the city. I ended up taking the bus, but of course didn't have any money small enough to pay the fare. After trying to pay with big Lithuanian Litus, then with Euros, then with Dollars, the driver finally was too exasperated to try to talk to me anymore! I got the trip for free. Living up to the stereotype of a dumb American tourist.
The hostel is fine, although I couldn't get my laptop to connect to the internet. I will continue to work on that. All in all, a pretty typical travel day with a bunch of ups and downs, but honestly, everything was pretty smooth and I got a bonus trip to Helsinki, Finland! Gotta love it.
Friday, March 27, 2009
80's music
I have forgotten to mention several times now, that in both Nicaragua and El Salvador, people LOVE 80's music! You want Air Supply or Journey, no problem. Poison, Ratt, and Motley Crue, done. You can pretty much rock out to all different types of 80's music. It is played everywhere. Buses, taxis, hotels, internet cafes. Everywhere. I thought it was just the easy listening type, but it seems to be all types. I guess everybody loves 80's music!
Wandering the streets!
The name El Salvador means "the savior". I didn´t realize that this country was named that. It is a pretty interesting concept. Also, that Jesus Christ is the patron saint of the city/country. Celebrations take place for the country and city in August.
Wandering around the city yesterday was great. I was at first a little worried after reading warnings about not taking pictures in the City Center, in fact, many people say to skip the city center all together. I have to say that I am glad that I threw caution to the wind and went with my own instincts. It was really an amazing day. The sun was shining, the walk was great. In fact, like in many cities, set up all along the sidewalks are little shops, etc. Well in continued all the way to the city center, but as you got closer, the shops branched off the sidewalks and into the road. Further into the center, these in road shops were more permanent with tile floors being built into the roads. The roads became so narrow, they were almost a pedestrian walkway, but with big smoke belching buses running by and almost running you down.
The Center was nice, it has some great little plazas as well as some churches (of course), and the National Palace, which was being remodeled, but has a great new museum that just opened up! I loved it. In fact I spent more time there then i had anticipated. In fact, it felt very safe to me!
I wandered from there to a nice quiet park, I had lunch from a vender and then saw art exhibit and a monument of Memory and Truth. Much like th Vietnam Memorial in Washington, this exhibit was names (25,000) carved into black granite (or marble) of the people who were killed or disappeared during the civil war. Pretty impressive.
I am heading off to the Anthropolgy museum today and then to the Zona Rosa. Should be a good day and then tomorrow to the airport for my 1:00 flight!
Wandering around the city yesterday was great. I was at first a little worried after reading warnings about not taking pictures in the City Center, in fact, many people say to skip the city center all together. I have to say that I am glad that I threw caution to the wind and went with my own instincts. It was really an amazing day. The sun was shining, the walk was great. In fact, like in many cities, set up all along the sidewalks are little shops, etc. Well in continued all the way to the city center, but as you got closer, the shops branched off the sidewalks and into the road. Further into the center, these in road shops were more permanent with tile floors being built into the roads. The roads became so narrow, they were almost a pedestrian walkway, but with big smoke belching buses running by and almost running you down.
The Center was nice, it has some great little plazas as well as some churches (of course), and the National Palace, which was being remodeled, but has a great new museum that just opened up! I loved it. In fact I spent more time there then i had anticipated. In fact, it felt very safe to me!
I wandered from there to a nice quiet park, I had lunch from a vender and then saw art exhibit and a monument of Memory and Truth. Much like th Vietnam Memorial in Washington, this exhibit was names (25,000) carved into black granite (or marble) of the people who were killed or disappeared during the civil war. Pretty impressive.
I am heading off to the Anthropolgy museum today and then to the Zona Rosa. Should be a good day and then tomorrow to the airport for my 1:00 flight!
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Safe San Salvador?
After a relatviely painless (although long) 11 hour bus ride, I arrived in El Salvador. After sitting on a bus for so long, it is good to get out and walk, so I found myself walking a bit with my bags and then decided to take a taxi to my hostel. I picked this place for a bunch of reasons. First, it was cheap, second, it seemed like one of the better locations int eh city, becuase so much of what you read says that different neighborhoods are unsafe! The place is fine, not great, but it will do. I looked at a bunch of other places and decided to stay where I am. Afterall, I have certainly stayed in worse, and their didn´t seemt to be too much better for the cost!
I did a fair amount of reading and researching on El Salvador before I arrived. Everything mentions that it is safe, although take precautions. That of course makes a lot of sense. It seems that the people here have also taken precautions. Every thing is surrounded by gates, burgler bars, and fences. Many of the fences are topped with razor wire. Most businesses have armed security guards at entrances. This includes some restaurants, bars and gas stations. Yes, San Salvador is safe, and its people take precautions. The websites weren´t lying!
I went for a long walk yesterday to get my bearings. While this is a big city, you can manage to walk it without too much trouble (but not after dark of course) and today I am off to the city center and a park. I already explored the modern art museum, and will be checking out a couple of others today and tomorrow.
I did a fair amount of reading and researching on El Salvador before I arrived. Everything mentions that it is safe, although take precautions. That of course makes a lot of sense. It seems that the people here have also taken precautions. Every thing is surrounded by gates, burgler bars, and fences. Many of the fences are topped with razor wire. Most businesses have armed security guards at entrances. This includes some restaurants, bars and gas stations. Yes, San Salvador is safe, and its people take precautions. The websites weren´t lying!
I went for a long walk yesterday to get my bearings. While this is a big city, you can manage to walk it without too much trouble (but not after dark of course) and today I am off to the city center and a park. I already explored the modern art museum, and will be checking out a couple of others today and tomorrow.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Back in Managua
I made it safely back in Managua (another two post day)! Although La Costena airlines again proved to be a bit of an adventure! I was waiting for the panga (the shuttle boat to go between the Corn Islands) and a woman said that they would take me (and a couple of other travelers) to Big Corn for the same price in the same amount of time. Since the "official" panga wasn't any where in sight we decided to go for it. We get across the water and she then says, that she can't take us to the harbor (they aren't licensed for passengers) but drops us off on the side of the road! (She charged a little less for our "inconvenience"). Regardless, we got a taxi and got to the airport. As we are waiting to check in at La Costena, the guy in front of me pulls out a gun from his waist band, takes out the clip and checks it as baggage. They tape the gun and the clip together, along with a baggage claim tag, give him the stub, and I guess the gun is checked! Wow. i check my bag, and I can't remember in the last post about the airline, but not only do they weigh the bags, they make you jump on the scale and get weighed (with your carry ons) as well. Funny for me, humiliating I guess for many of the women!
It has been a great time here in Nicaragua and I am a bit sad to leave. I was able to do pretty much everything I wanted. I skipped San Juan del Sur (a very popular beach destination) for the Corn Islands and I am pretty sure I made the right choice. Interesting things aout Nicaragua: many of the roads aren't paved, some of the roads are paved with paving stones, people here work hard for their money, and their are a lot of very poor people, (like in many other poor countries) people sell everything in the street. Water is sold in little bags that you bite a corner off of and drink. Taxi drivers are desperate for your fare. All in all the people are super friendly, super nice, and very helpful. I really have enjoyed the time. Tomorrow, I take the bus to San Salvador. The bus leaves at 5:00am and I need to be there at 4:00am. I am staying steps away from the bus station so that is lucky, although the neighborhood isn't the nicest. (Why are bus stations always in sketchy neighborhoods?) The best thing is that I am staying in the exact room that I started this journey in! I haven't been able to do much souveneir type shopping, but there is nothing new or different that I have seen.
Anyway, great time here in Nicaragua! I hope El Salvador is as nice!
It has been a great time here in Nicaragua and I am a bit sad to leave. I was able to do pretty much everything I wanted. I skipped San Juan del Sur (a very popular beach destination) for the Corn Islands and I am pretty sure I made the right choice. Interesting things aout Nicaragua: many of the roads aren't paved, some of the roads are paved with paving stones, people here work hard for their money, and their are a lot of very poor people, (like in many other poor countries) people sell everything in the street. Water is sold in little bags that you bite a corner off of and drink. Taxi drivers are desperate for your fare. All in all the people are super friendly, super nice, and very helpful. I really have enjoyed the time. Tomorrow, I take the bus to San Salvador. The bus leaves at 5:00am and I need to be there at 4:00am. I am staying steps away from the bus station so that is lucky, although the neighborhood isn't the nicest. (Why are bus stations always in sketchy neighborhoods?) The best thing is that I am staying in the exact room that I started this journey in! I haven't been able to do much souveneir type shopping, but there is nothing new or different that I have seen.
Anyway, great time here in Nicaragua! I hope El Salvador is as nice!
Little Corn Island
It is hard to explain how much I have enjoyed my time on Little Corn Island. It is the perfect getaway from everything. You feel a million miles away from any trouble, any worries, any stress. Over the past couple of days I have taken three dives. They were great, in fact, they were my first cave/tunnel dives and it was so chill and relaxed that you forget to be claustrophobic.
Basically the island has no cars (only wheelbarrows), no roads (on paths). It is not as cheap as the mainland, but considering where you are, how hard it is to get things here, it really isn't too bad. I had originally wanted to stay on the far side of the island. It is truly amamzing. Completely untouched beaches. Sure there may be a hammock or something, but no resorts, no big hotels, no massive amounts of people. You have to remember, that water is scarce, the electricity in the town comes on from about 3:00pm to 5:00am. Other then that there is no power, except for a few places with generators. You are really out there, and it is totally worth it. This will certainly be a highlight of this trip for me. I have met a bunch of people, all fun, all nice, all enjoying this out of the way place. It is so interesting because I can see why some people would feel that this is too far away without enough conveniences, but for me, it was perfect. Almost paradise!
Basically the island has no cars (only wheelbarrows), no roads (on paths). It is not as cheap as the mainland, but considering where you are, how hard it is to get things here, it really isn't too bad. I had originally wanted to stay on the far side of the island. It is truly amamzing. Completely untouched beaches. Sure there may be a hammock or something, but no resorts, no big hotels, no massive amounts of people. You have to remember, that water is scarce, the electricity in the town comes on from about 3:00pm to 5:00am. Other then that there is no power, except for a few places with generators. You are really out there, and it is totally worth it. This will certainly be a highlight of this trip for me. I have met a bunch of people, all fun, all nice, all enjoying this out of the way place. It is so interesting because I can see why some people would feel that this is too far away without enough conveniences, but for me, it was perfect. Almost paradise!
Saturday, March 21, 2009
La Constena Airline
Today I travelled back to Managua to the airport to catch my flight out to the Corn Islands. All seemed to be going well. I got the taxi to the bus to the taxi and I was settled at the airport a bit before 12:00. They had told me that I needed to get to the airport by 12:30 to purchase my ticket and whatnot. I was pretty happy about everything. When i arrive I am shuttled around and finally found the right line. I happily waited until she was ready (no hand in the face today). I move up and say, "I have a reservation #29." She replies, "do you have a ticket", "No but I have a reservation and they said that I can purchase a ticket when I arrive." "No, you must wait until 1:30 to see if there is room." At this point I thought I really am in the Seinfeld episode about reservations. You know the one, Gerry says "you know how to take the reservation, but you don't know how to keep the reservation and that is the most important part."
Basically, this airline is a bit like a bus. You by a ticket that is good for whenever, and then you make a reservation and turn up and jump on, no seat assignments. Well it all worked out and I got on the plane, after waiting an additional 90 minutes! Anyway, the plane. Let me tell you about it. It was of course a small (36) seat prop type plane that looked like it could have been in the Howard Hughes movie, something right out of the 50s almost. It was square, not really round. There was no underneath for the luggage. A lot of the baggage went in the nose! You entered from the rear and then found a seat. Loud, although efficient, we made it safely to Big Corn Island.
On another note, I had trouble with the security. They thought I had a knife. They serached my bag, and ran it through a couple of times, and still thought I had a knife. Nope. But you are allowed to take on liquids and I didn't have to take off my shoes!
I had decided to stay on Big Corn for the couple of days that I was here. As soon as I saw it though I knew I would need to head to Little Corn. he two kilometer-long island has a few hotels and restaurants and a dive shop and that is about it. I was really excited to stay on the western side in a hut on the beach. Sadly, they were full for tonight, but I will be checking it out again tomorrow and finding my little bit of Island paradise. As it is, I am in The Village, and the hotel is nice. I of course hadn't made reservations and that was the problem! I am hoping to sit on the beach, read, do a little diving, sit on the beach, etc. I am taking a vacation from my trip! How am I so lucky to be here!
Basically, this airline is a bit like a bus. You by a ticket that is good for whenever, and then you make a reservation and turn up and jump on, no seat assignments. Well it all worked out and I got on the plane, after waiting an additional 90 minutes! Anyway, the plane. Let me tell you about it. It was of course a small (36) seat prop type plane that looked like it could have been in the Howard Hughes movie, something right out of the 50s almost. It was square, not really round. There was no underneath for the luggage. A lot of the baggage went in the nose! You entered from the rear and then found a seat. Loud, although efficient, we made it safely to Big Corn Island.
On another note, I had trouble with the security. They thought I had a knife. They serached my bag, and ran it through a couple of times, and still thought I had a knife. Nope. But you are allowed to take on liquids and I didn't have to take off my shoes!
I had decided to stay on Big Corn for the couple of days that I was here. As soon as I saw it though I knew I would need to head to Little Corn. he two kilometer-long island has a few hotels and restaurants and a dive shop and that is about it. I was really excited to stay on the western side in a hut on the beach. Sadly, they were full for tonight, but I will be checking it out again tomorrow and finding my little bit of Island paradise. As it is, I am in The Village, and the hotel is nice. I of course hadn't made reservations and that was the problem! I am hoping to sit on the beach, read, do a little diving, sit on the beach, etc. I am taking a vacation from my trip! How am I so lucky to be here!
Friday, March 20, 2009
Leon in a Day
Yes, Today deserved two posts!
I had a great day in Leon. I was almost talked out of coming here by a worker for an NGO who had said that it was a working class town and Granada was a lot nicer. I was feeling that I should perhaps not make the extra trek north to get all the way up here. I am glad that I did. It is certainly a bit different then the other cities I have been to and hoem to a number of museums and, of course, many churches.
I first bought a bus ticket to San Salvador for next week. I was actually a bit excited about this bus journey as I was planning to go Executive class. I am nost sure exactly what that is, but what I could figure out was that the seats recline almost all the way back, there is a food service, and it is just really nice. Unfortunately, I found out that Executive Class is full until the middle of April. So I guess I will be going where I belong in Economy class. Shame.
Once the ticket wsa purchased, I started my day by exploring about five different churches in town. They are all a short walk from each other and they are all unique in their own way. It is amazing to me the number of churches that are built within such a close proximity to each other. Leon in no different then the other cities. It is pretty amazing. The churches here look a bit weathered but they are all a bit different on the inside and all were preparing for Easter.
The first museum was dedicated to the victims and martyrs of the revolution. It is galleries of headshots of those who were killed. They all look young, they all look eager, they all look like my students, they all were killed. Wow.
I moved along to an art musuem. This is a well known museum in Central America and has some of the best works of art here. Amazingly it was an open air museum. No climate control, an open roof. There were fans in each of the rooms. So different. they opened and closed the shutters to the street to keep the sun off the paintings. There were Central American artists, of course, and they were well represented. But there was also Picasso and Chagall here as well. Pretty amazing for Nicaragua.
Finally, I hit the Rubin Diario museum. He is the well known (although not by me) poet from Nicaragua. Many things are named after him and he was from Leon and in entombed here in the main church. It was a few old beds, some pictures, some actual writings, and a lot of books. Not all that interesting, but free!
After a full day of wandering around the city, I was ready for a rest. Luckily for me in Leon, there is a park side cafe, serving very good cappuchino! It was the first one that I have found in Nicaragua (outside of a mall) and frankly, I was pretty excited.
It was good.
Well I am off now. Tomorrow I head back to Managua to fly to the Corn Islands for a few days. Although there are reports of internet access on these remote islands, I have been told that it is not reliable. They are really off the beaten path. So I may not be posting for a few days. I fly back to Managua on Tuesday and then off to San Salvador on Wednesday.
I had a great day in Leon. I was almost talked out of coming here by a worker for an NGO who had said that it was a working class town and Granada was a lot nicer. I was feeling that I should perhaps not make the extra trek north to get all the way up here. I am glad that I did. It is certainly a bit different then the other cities I have been to and hoem to a number of museums and, of course, many churches.
I first bought a bus ticket to San Salvador for next week. I was actually a bit excited about this bus journey as I was planning to go Executive class. I am nost sure exactly what that is, but what I could figure out was that the seats recline almost all the way back, there is a food service, and it is just really nice. Unfortunately, I found out that Executive Class is full until the middle of April. So I guess I will be going where I belong in Economy class. Shame.
Once the ticket wsa purchased, I started my day by exploring about five different churches in town. They are all a short walk from each other and they are all unique in their own way. It is amazing to me the number of churches that are built within such a close proximity to each other. Leon in no different then the other cities. It is pretty amazing. The churches here look a bit weathered but they are all a bit different on the inside and all were preparing for Easter.
The first museum was dedicated to the victims and martyrs of the revolution. It is galleries of headshots of those who were killed. They all look young, they all look eager, they all look like my students, they all were killed. Wow.
I moved along to an art musuem. This is a well known museum in Central America and has some of the best works of art here. Amazingly it was an open air museum. No climate control, an open roof. There were fans in each of the rooms. So different. they opened and closed the shutters to the street to keep the sun off the paintings. There were Central American artists, of course, and they were well represented. But there was also Picasso and Chagall here as well. Pretty amazing for Nicaragua.
Finally, I hit the Rubin Diario museum. He is the well known (although not by me) poet from Nicaragua. Many things are named after him and he was from Leon and in entombed here in the main church. It was a few old beds, some pictures, some actual writings, and a lot of books. Not all that interesting, but free!
After a full day of wandering around the city, I was ready for a rest. Luckily for me in Leon, there is a park side cafe, serving very good cappuchino! It was the first one that I have found in Nicaragua (outside of a mall) and frankly, I was pretty excited.
It was good.
Well I am off now. Tomorrow I head back to Managua to fly to the Corn Islands for a few days. Although there are reports of internet access on these remote islands, I have been told that it is not reliable. They are really off the beaten path. So I may not be posting for a few days. I fly back to Managua on Tuesday and then off to San Salvador on Wednesday.
My Skin is Revolting
Yes, it is true. True, on so many levels. First, although I though I was clean after the two dusty (very dusty days hiking), I got in the shower last night to find that the dirt had stuck to me, regardless of all the washing and scrubbing I had done. By the time I was done in the cold shower, I was red and raw.
This morning I woke up to my face peeling. I thought it was just my chin. Come to find out that everything was flaking off. Next I felt my scalp start. Finally, my ears were peeling. It was all that flaky, kind of dirty looking peel. I, of course, didn´t bring lotion (other then sun lotion). My lips peeling were the last straw. I was gross to look at. I would rub the back of my neck and get a handful. I would scratch my forehead, there was more.
It really felt like all my skin was trying to get away from me! I say great. Go, Skin, jump off me. Jump off into the wind, or the sheets. Little does it know that the dust mites living in the mattresses are having a feast!
This morning I woke up to my face peeling. I thought it was just my chin. Come to find out that everything was flaking off. Next I felt my scalp start. Finally, my ears were peeling. It was all that flaky, kind of dirty looking peel. I, of course, didn´t bring lotion (other then sun lotion). My lips peeling were the last straw. I was gross to look at. I would rub the back of my neck and get a handful. I would scratch my forehead, there was more.
It really felt like all my skin was trying to get away from me! I say great. Go, Skin, jump off me. Jump off into the wind, or the sheets. Little does it know that the dust mites living in the mattresses are having a feast!
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Four Buses and a Ferry
Today was a travel day. Meaning I didn´t see to much becuase I was trying to get from one place to another. I have to say, that my plan for the day worked perfectly, although it took seemingly forever!
A day by the minutes:
6:30 Wake up and shower
7:00 Check out of the hotel
7:15 Catch first bus from Ometepe to MOyogalpa (remember of course the buses are old school buses that stop and pick people up and drop them off all the way between towns)
8:30 Arrive at the ferry terminal.
8:31 Hand in the face from the ticket seller, she wasn´t ready yet.
8:42 bought ticket!! Get on ferry.
10:15 Arrive in San Jorge and jump a taxi to Rivas
10:35 Arrive in Rivas at the bus station.
10:36 directed to the right bus (again the school bus thing) and loaded bag on top.
11:00ish bus departs for Grenada.
12:40 Arrive in Grenada.
12:45 Find public phone to try to book plane tickets. They are at lunch.
12:50 Head to the Central Park for another Vigaron. (I told you I liked them).
1:20 Finish my lunch and find a phone.
1:27 Reservations made, head back to the bus station
1:29 Bus is driving by, (Managua, Managua, Managua is being yelled by the ¨helper¨) I flag it down jump on.
2:30ish Arrive in Managua find bus to Leon.
2:48 Bus drivers and helpers are angered that I got ripped off by the ice cream salesmen. They are very frustrated and talk about it (and to me) for about five minutes.
3:00ish Bus leaves for Leon.
4:30 Arrive in Leon find a cab to Hostel.
5:00 Relax and drink some water.
5:15 Explore city a bit, find some great street food, drink a coke and a pepsi.
5:45 Realize that my legs are tightening up from the volcano hike and sitting all day.
All in all it was a good, successful day and I continue to do better with my Spanish and talking to people. It was nice. Just a lot of transferring and sitting, moving and waiting.
The plan is to explore Leon tomorrow and stay over night. Saturday, I will travel back to Managua where I will fly to the Corn Islands for a few days and do some diving perhaps. They I will fly back to Managua and spend a night and then head to San Salvador.
A side note of interest (perhaps): Today was the first day that I have come close to spending my slef imposed $50 a day limit. I am still under it and I have paid for the previous two nights hotel and dinner, all the transportation (not the flights to the Corn Islands), and tonights hotel. Sadly, my towel was stolen, so I had to buy another one. Even with that, I haven´t spent fifty bucks yet. It is great when hotels with single rooms and private bathrooms are only $6 a night. Amazing.
A day by the minutes:
6:30 Wake up and shower
7:00 Check out of the hotel
7:15 Catch first bus from Ometepe to MOyogalpa (remember of course the buses are old school buses that stop and pick people up and drop them off all the way between towns)
8:30 Arrive at the ferry terminal.
8:31 Hand in the face from the ticket seller, she wasn´t ready yet.
8:42 bought ticket!! Get on ferry.
10:15 Arrive in San Jorge and jump a taxi to Rivas
10:35 Arrive in Rivas at the bus station.
10:36 directed to the right bus (again the school bus thing) and loaded bag on top.
11:00ish bus departs for Grenada.
12:40 Arrive in Grenada.
12:45 Find public phone to try to book plane tickets. They are at lunch.
12:50 Head to the Central Park for another Vigaron. (I told you I liked them).
1:20 Finish my lunch and find a phone.
1:27 Reservations made, head back to the bus station
1:29 Bus is driving by, (Managua, Managua, Managua is being yelled by the ¨helper¨) I flag it down jump on.
2:30ish Arrive in Managua find bus to Leon.
2:48 Bus drivers and helpers are angered that I got ripped off by the ice cream salesmen. They are very frustrated and talk about it (and to me) for about five minutes.
3:00ish Bus leaves for Leon.
4:30 Arrive in Leon find a cab to Hostel.
5:00 Relax and drink some water.
5:15 Explore city a bit, find some great street food, drink a coke and a pepsi.
5:45 Realize that my legs are tightening up from the volcano hike and sitting all day.
All in all it was a good, successful day and I continue to do better with my Spanish and talking to people. It was nice. Just a lot of transferring and sitting, moving and waiting.
The plan is to explore Leon tomorrow and stay over night. Saturday, I will travel back to Managua where I will fly to the Corn Islands for a few days and do some diving perhaps. They I will fly back to Managua and spend a night and then head to San Salvador.
A side note of interest (perhaps): Today was the first day that I have come close to spending my slef imposed $50 a day limit. I am still under it and I have paid for the previous two nights hotel and dinner, all the transportation (not the flights to the Corn Islands), and tonights hotel. Sadly, my towel was stolen, so I had to buy another one. Even with that, I haven´t spent fifty bucks yet. It is great when hotels with single rooms and private bathrooms are only $6 a night. Amazing.
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Mestlitepe: The Menstruating Mountain
Volcano Conception, the larger of the two volcanoes on this island, has a very active history. She has erupted several times in the last 150 years and was last producing ash, etc., in 2004-2005. Due to her activity and the pouring hot red lava flows (when she is erupting), she has earned herself this name. What a
This morning my friend Sarah (she is a Canadian) and I got up at 4:30 to meet our guide at 5:00. We were off on our 18 km hike from the side of the lake to the top of the Mestlitepe/Conception. It was a nice 3km hike to the trail base and then 6 to the top. The volcano is famous for being almost a prfect cone to see and is pretty amazing. It is also known to be very windy and cloudy at the top (notice the foreshadowing). You start the hike through banana plantations on a dusty uphill path. It is about 5:30. Seems great! We get to the 'real' trailhead about 5:50 and we can´t go up until we see the guy who youhave to pay. Our guide said he will be here soon. About 6:20 or so we left and didn´t pay; no worries, he got us on the way down. As soon as you start the trail it is rocky, steep, and challenging. It was great. We took it slow and all was good. You are climbing on loose rock/gravel, all volcanic (obviously) and you need to be careful not to turn an ankle. We hiked up through lava flows, through short trees, through scrub bush, through mud. All the way we were happy because it was early and there was plenty of cloud cover to protect us from the sun. It gets windier, and wetter. Even the plants don´t grow any more due to the wind. All three of us are now soaked through our clothes; who knew youcould get so wet from clouds whipping by you. By about 10:15, we are ready to make our final assault to the top of the volcano. We go for it. Our guide said (en espanol, of course)you won´t see much too cold and too cloudy! We went for it any way.
The summit was amazing. Not only was it extremely windy, cold, and wet, but it was awesome to be on the very edge of an active volcano! There were patches of sulfur that had blown out on the ground, the views were stunning (for about 2 seconds when the clouds opened up). It was just truly a very cool thing to have done. The guidebooks all say this is a strenuous climb and that you should be in good physical condition. They weren´t lying!
The way down, however, was a bit treacherous. While going up the path you are able to scramble a bit and pull your self up and over. On the way down, you don´t have that same luxury. It was a rough climb down. Sliding, slipping, falling. In fact, I have never been on hike that took the same amount of time going down as it did going up!
All in all another great day on this island paradise. With my walking stick, hiking up a volcano, I felt a little like Gandolf, so I did throw a reed ring into the Volcano.
Tomorrow, I am off...still deciding where. Maybe Managua, maybe Leon, maybe San Juan del Sur. I have to make up my mind soon!
This morning my friend Sarah (she is a Canadian) and I got up at 4:30 to meet our guide at 5:00. We were off on our 18 km hike from the side of the lake to the top of the Mestlitepe/Conception. It was a nice 3km hike to the trail base and then 6 to the top. The volcano is famous for being almost a prfect cone to see and is pretty amazing. It is also known to be very windy and cloudy at the top (notice the foreshadowing). You start the hike through banana plantations on a dusty uphill path. It is about 5:30. Seems great! We get to the 'real' trailhead about 5:50 and we can´t go up until we see the guy who youhave to pay. Our guide said he will be here soon. About 6:20 or so we left and didn´t pay; no worries, he got us on the way down. As soon as you start the trail it is rocky, steep, and challenging. It was great. We took it slow and all was good. You are climbing on loose rock/gravel, all volcanic (obviously) and you need to be careful not to turn an ankle. We hiked up through lava flows, through short trees, through scrub bush, through mud. All the way we were happy because it was early and there was plenty of cloud cover to protect us from the sun. It gets windier, and wetter. Even the plants don´t grow any more due to the wind. All three of us are now soaked through our clothes; who knew youcould get so wet from clouds whipping by you. By about 10:15, we are ready to make our final assault to the top of the volcano. We go for it. Our guide said (en espanol, of course)you won´t see much too cold and too cloudy! We went for it any way.
The summit was amazing. Not only was it extremely windy, cold, and wet, but it was awesome to be on the very edge of an active volcano! There were patches of sulfur that had blown out on the ground, the views were stunning (for about 2 seconds when the clouds opened up). It was just truly a very cool thing to have done. The guidebooks all say this is a strenuous climb and that you should be in good physical condition. They weren´t lying!
The way down, however, was a bit treacherous. While going up the path you are able to scramble a bit and pull your self up and over. On the way down, you don´t have that same luxury. It was a rough climb down. Sliding, slipping, falling. In fact, I have never been on hike that took the same amount of time going down as it did going up!
All in all another great day on this island paradise. With my walking stick, hiking up a volcano, I felt a little like Gandolf, so I did throw a reed ring into the Volcano.
Tomorrow, I am off...still deciding where. Maybe Managua, maybe Leon, maybe San Juan del Sur. I have to make up my mind soon!
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Kayaks, Ferries, and Waterfalls
The last two days have beena whirlwind of activitiy. After a great little Kayaking tour through the isletas of Grenada I made my way to Isla de Ometepe. I had met thse four pe3ople who were traveling to Ometepe and were taking the ferry directly from Grenada. I jumped into their group and we had a couple of great days. First was the ferry crossing. It would seem like it would be easy but in fact it wa a mission to check your bags. First they were weighed and you were given a piece of paper. Then you brought the paper to a window where they took it. Next you waited at another window where after writing a page full of details, you paid to check your bag. All in Spanish of course and all a bit overwhelming. Done.
Today we spent the day on the back of a pick-up driving around the island. This island was formed by two different volcanoes. We organized a guide and a truck to take us to see some petroglyphs,a nd a three hour hike to the San Ramon Waterfall. The water fall was great and the five of us were there alone and we were able to jump in the pool and rinse off the sweat in the spray. Pretty awesome. After the hike back, we rode horses to two great natural pools and swam for a while, before returning to Altagracia. Tomorrow, I am off on a volcano climb. Volcano Conception is the bigger of the two and still active. Should provide for a good c,limb. I am going with a woman Sarah I met and this hike will be about 10-12 hours. Details to follow.
Today was really a perfect day and off the beaten tourist track. Only pòssible due to a group. I am thankful to have bumped into these others!
Today we spent the day on the back of a pick-up driving around the island. This island was formed by two different volcanoes. We organized a guide and a truck to take us to see some petroglyphs,a nd a three hour hike to the San Ramon Waterfall. The water fall was great and the five of us were there alone and we were able to jump in the pool and rinse off the sweat in the spray. Pretty awesome. After the hike back, we rode horses to two great natural pools and swam for a while, before returning to Altagracia. Tomorrow, I am off on a volcano climb. Volcano Conception is the bigger of the two and still active. Should provide for a good c,limb. I am going with a woman Sarah I met and this hike will be about 10-12 hours. Details to follow.
Today was really a perfect day and off the beaten tourist track. Only pòssible due to a group. I am thankful to have bumped into these others!
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Yucca snacks
After a good sleep and a good breakfast, I was helped to the bus station by Francisco and his mother and I was off. All the way to the station, Francisco's mother was giving travel warnings, watch your passport, put your wallet in the front, don't talk to strangers, beware of people selling drugs etc. It was very nice. This family was so nice to me over the course of a few days. I truly appreciate their generosity.
On to Grenada. I think I made a poor choice in terms of hostels tonight, we shall see. It was fine, but it will be hot tonight, but at six bucks, you can't really complain. After checking in and getting settled, I set out to explore the town on foot. I walked from one end to the other. What a great little town. There are plenty o Gringos and this place is certainly sued to the tourist trade, although it is very quaint and very nice. The main sights are of course churches. Some have been redone, some have not, some are in the process. It was a good day, and pretty uneventful.
I still love street food. I think I have written about it before, but I really do like it. I hope my stomach holds out. Today was this tortilla filled with stuff, some dried banana thing, the scraped ice snow cone, and a vigaron. The vigaron was my favorite. I didn't know what it was. It just looked good. And it was good. It is a pile of yucca, topped with a tangy cabbage salad and a big dried pork rind served on a banana leaf. It is hard to explain really, but think of mashed potatoes on a banana leaf with a spicy cabbage on top! Yum. And it was under $2. What a deal. I think I will have it for lunch tomorrow too.
On to Grenada. I think I made a poor choice in terms of hostels tonight, we shall see. It was fine, but it will be hot tonight, but at six bucks, you can't really complain. After checking in and getting settled, I set out to explore the town on foot. I walked from one end to the other. What a great little town. There are plenty o Gringos and this place is certainly sued to the tourist trade, although it is very quaint and very nice. The main sights are of course churches. Some have been redone, some have not, some are in the process. It was a good day, and pretty uneventful.
I still love street food. I think I have written about it before, but I really do like it. I hope my stomach holds out. Today was this tortilla filled with stuff, some dried banana thing, the scraped ice snow cone, and a vigaron. The vigaron was my favorite. I didn't know what it was. It just looked good. And it was good. It is a pile of yucca, topped with a tangy cabbage salad and a big dried pork rind served on a banana leaf. It is hard to explain really, but think of mashed potatoes on a banana leaf with a spicy cabbage on top! Yum. And it was under $2. What a deal. I think I will have it for lunch tomorrow too.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Dairy Cows: Inseminated
After blogging, yesterday, we headed out to a bar/club in Esteli. Francisco´s father walks in, nobody says anything to him. Me? I have to pay the cover. They are after the gringos I tell you!
Today we were headed back to Managua and my plan was to head out soon after returning to Grenada, see the town a bit today and tomorrow. On the way back we decided to stop and spend some time on the dairy farms owned by this same business man mentioned above. Did you know that they can sex semen so that the cows are only inseminated to make female calves? Pretty amazing. I was able to meet the inseminator today, he road in (with the sperm frozen with Nitrogen) on a mule to find the four or so cows who were ready for action. A very high tech sex specific semen rides in on a sterile mule. How ironic.
The saddest news I heard today was about some bulls. They are excited, and excitable. When the inseminator can´t find all the cows in heat, they call upon these 'marker bulls' who sniff out and find the females and try to mount them. Sadly, for whatever reason instead of going straight, they seem to bear to the left or right, leaving the cow unfertilized and themself fairly frustrated. I guess they need to be careful as these bulls tend to become aggressive. Hmmm. I wonder why.
Today we were headed back to Managua and my plan was to head out soon after returning to Grenada, see the town a bit today and tomorrow. On the way back we decided to stop and spend some time on the dairy farms owned by this same business man mentioned above. Did you know that they can sex semen so that the cows are only inseminated to make female calves? Pretty amazing. I was able to meet the inseminator today, he road in (with the sperm frozen with Nitrogen) on a mule to find the four or so cows who were ready for action. A very high tech sex specific semen rides in on a sterile mule. How ironic.
The saddest news I heard today was about some bulls. They are excited, and excitable. When the inseminator can´t find all the cows in heat, they call upon these 'marker bulls' who sniff out and find the females and try to mount them. Sadly, for whatever reason instead of going straight, they seem to bear to the left or right, leaving the cow unfertilized and themself fairly frustrated. I guess they need to be careful as these bulls tend to become aggressive. Hmmm. I wonder why.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Breaking a Vow
Somewhere about five years ago, I decided that I would never smoke anything ever again. I was never a smoker and in fact found (still find) the habit a bit disgusting. I always joked you get stained hands, stained teeth, smelly clothes and then for the whopper, lung cancer. I have to admit I have had a cigarette or two. I will chalk it up (much like the high schoolers) as trying to be cool and a bit of peer pressure. Ugh. You would think I would be over all that. Anyway...
I decided I would never smoke anything again. I have stuck to it. Religiously, even. Even mocking those that have and do smoke. I guess all promises were made to be broken. Today was the day for me.
As you know I have been staying with a current student who´s father is a successful business man here in Nicaragua, and one of his businesses is tobacco. Not only does he grow it, he dries it, and then makes cigars! Having been a former tobacco picker myself, I was kind of excited to see where the tobacco goes after it is picked. (Point of Information: Tobacco grown in CT is known as CT tobacco (go figure) and is used solely for the wrapping of cigars, not the insdes.) All I can say is what a process. The conventional wisdom is that 300 hands touch every cigar that is smoked in the US and after today, I believe it. The leaves are dried, then they are left in humid conditions to ferment. This heat/energy as well as color change and flavor/odor. Clearly a chemical reaction is taking place. The drying leaves, in huge piles in a warehouse, have to be rotated so that they doo not get to hot, the temperature is taken and recorded, etc. They are kept moist and pliable, they are deveined. They are rolled and pressed, and rolled again, and kept moist. This can take up to a copule of years. Even the little paper rings on the end of the cigar are placed there by hand. Not to mention the poor women who was cutting out labels all day. Much of this work seemed like it would be fun for the Amazing Race (or for an hour) and then, a bit of fatigue!
Needless to say many of the cigar men were Cubans. I met tons of people. I wish I knew a bit more Spanish. What was amazing though is I was taught to taste the different flavors in different cigars. These men would pull leaves, and roll a cigar right there, and we would smoke it. I learned smooth vs strong vs not-yet-ready. It was pretty amazing. At every stop we would be having at least one if not three cigars. It was a great day, and one I am not soon to forget. I guess some vows were made be broken.
I decided I would never smoke anything again. I have stuck to it. Religiously, even. Even mocking those that have and do smoke. I guess all promises were made to be broken. Today was the day for me.
As you know I have been staying with a current student who´s father is a successful business man here in Nicaragua, and one of his businesses is tobacco. Not only does he grow it, he dries it, and then makes cigars! Having been a former tobacco picker myself, I was kind of excited to see where the tobacco goes after it is picked. (Point of Information: Tobacco grown in CT is known as CT tobacco (go figure) and is used solely for the wrapping of cigars, not the insdes.) All I can say is what a process. The conventional wisdom is that 300 hands touch every cigar that is smoked in the US and after today, I believe it. The leaves are dried, then they are left in humid conditions to ferment. This heat/energy as well as color change and flavor/odor. Clearly a chemical reaction is taking place. The drying leaves, in huge piles in a warehouse, have to be rotated so that they doo not get to hot, the temperature is taken and recorded, etc. They are kept moist and pliable, they are deveined. They are rolled and pressed, and rolled again, and kept moist. This can take up to a copule of years. Even the little paper rings on the end of the cigar are placed there by hand. Not to mention the poor women who was cutting out labels all day. Much of this work seemed like it would be fun for the Amazing Race (or for an hour) and then, a bit of fatigue!
Needless to say many of the cigar men were Cubans. I met tons of people. I wish I knew a bit more Spanish. What was amazing though is I was taught to taste the different flavors in different cigars. These men would pull leaves, and roll a cigar right there, and we would smoke it. I learned smooth vs strong vs not-yet-ready. It was pretty amazing. At every stop we would be having at least one if not three cigars. It was a great day, and one I am not soon to forget. I guess some vows were made be broken.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Private Tours in Spanish!
My original plan was to leave my bag at the hotel, see a few sights in Managua, and then head out to Grenada for a couple of nights. In the meantime, I called a current Suffield student (he is Nicaraguan) to say hello and try to arrange something for either today or later in the trip. His comment was do you still want to see our tobacco farm? "Of course!" "Great, I will pick you up in 20 minutes!"
Wow. What a great afternoon. I quickly left the peir where I was planning to have lunch and met up with him and we went on a great tour of things just around Managua which I would not have gotten to see with out a car and a driver. Francisco's driver was Alberto. It was great. I went to the top of an active volcano, saw some amazing lakes, visited a few markets, tried some local foods, and then even made the trip to Grenada to see the place, get a layout and come all the way back to Managua! Overall, it was great to see him here, great to have him explain the country through his eyes, and great to go to these amazing places.
This morning I saw Huellas de Acahaulinka. These are 6000 year old footprints made by a family of people walking towards the lake. Private tour #1 in Spanish. She asked if I spoke Spanish and I said no not really. But we forged ahead and it was great. I understood a bit, not too much but the tour was included with admission! Next was a taxi ride to the Zona Monumental and the pier. The National Palace was beautiful (it has been rebuilt after the 1972 earthquake) and that is where I got Priave Tour in Spanish #2. This one was much more successful and I actually learned quite a bit. Nicarauga has suffered some pretty major earthquakes which have devasted cities. Managua lies right along a fault line. I guess that is part of the danger with all the volcanos. The other amazing thing is to remember how "young" this land mass is. The land of Central America really formed from volcanic and seismic activity (much like Iceland). Pretty cool. One of the few buildings that survived the 1972 Earthquake was Cathedral, which is a beautiful building, however, due to lack on finances has never been restored. The center of the city has also moved from this location. What a shame.
Next I head to a tobacco farm, getting back to my routes from CT. I wonder if my picking skills are still there and if they will come in handy?
Wow. What a great afternoon. I quickly left the peir where I was planning to have lunch and met up with him and we went on a great tour of things just around Managua which I would not have gotten to see with out a car and a driver. Francisco's driver was Alberto. It was great. I went to the top of an active volcano, saw some amazing lakes, visited a few markets, tried some local foods, and then even made the trip to Grenada to see the place, get a layout and come all the way back to Managua! Overall, it was great to see him here, great to have him explain the country through his eyes, and great to go to these amazing places.
This morning I saw Huellas de Acahaulinka. These are 6000 year old footprints made by a family of people walking towards the lake. Private tour #1 in Spanish. She asked if I spoke Spanish and I said no not really. But we forged ahead and it was great. I understood a bit, not too much but the tour was included with admission! Next was a taxi ride to the Zona Monumental and the pier. The National Palace was beautiful (it has been rebuilt after the 1972 earthquake) and that is where I got Priave Tour in Spanish #2. This one was much more successful and I actually learned quite a bit. Nicarauga has suffered some pretty major earthquakes which have devasted cities. Managua lies right along a fault line. I guess that is part of the danger with all the volcanos. The other amazing thing is to remember how "young" this land mass is. The land of Central America really formed from volcanic and seismic activity (much like Iceland). Pretty cool. One of the few buildings that survived the 1972 Earthquake was Cathedral, which is a beautiful building, however, due to lack on finances has never been restored. The center of the city has also moved from this location. What a shame.
Next I head to a tobacco farm, getting back to my routes from CT. I wonder if my picking skills are still there and if they will come in handy?
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Taking Off...to Managua
As always, I tend to be a bit last minute. Maybe it is a commitment thing...shame. Anyway, I decided about a week ago to come back to Central America to see a bit more of the famed isthmus. But getting here was a bit more hectic then I had anticipated.
I didn't plan anything. I had a loose idea of my itinerary. While this is really my preferred method of travel, I was feeling a bit out of sorts about this, as I hadn't really done much research at all until last night!
I, of course, pack at the last minute. You would think by now I know what I need to bring with me when I am traveling. I actually did ok. with one major exception. I have become so used to my cell phone, I didn't bring a watch or clock. Now since I don't stay in the fanciest of places, I needed to have something that would tell me the time and wake me up in the mornings! Yay! Duty Free! Since I had an long layover in Miami I figured I would buy one there. I needed a new running watch anyone. Crisis averted (for $62).
Flight delays. The flight was late getting in to Miami, but we boarded. Then we were told that there was a leak with the hydraulic fluid for the landing gear and it was going to need to be repaired. So we waited. And waited. I decided to start texting an calling people! It was a good way to catch up!
Arrival in Managua was amazingly smooth. This is probably the most relxed Central American capital I have been to. Certianly not as hectic as Guatemala City and it feels safer the San Jose (although everyone reminds you to be safe).
I wandered around town at sunset tonight, which was nice. I found my way up to the statue of Sandino on the top of the volcano. It gives pretty amazing views of the City and mountains. It is amamzing, I never thought of Managua as beautiful. But it is. Mountains and water always make a place look great!
Tomorrow is a bit more site seeing and then perhaps off to Grenada!
I didn't plan anything. I had a loose idea of my itinerary. While this is really my preferred method of travel, I was feeling a bit out of sorts about this, as I hadn't really done much research at all until last night!
I, of course, pack at the last minute. You would think by now I know what I need to bring with me when I am traveling. I actually did ok. with one major exception. I have become so used to my cell phone, I didn't bring a watch or clock. Now since I don't stay in the fanciest of places, I needed to have something that would tell me the time and wake me up in the mornings! Yay! Duty Free! Since I had an long layover in Miami I figured I would buy one there. I needed a new running watch anyone. Crisis averted (for $62).
Flight delays. The flight was late getting in to Miami, but we boarded. Then we were told that there was a leak with the hydraulic fluid for the landing gear and it was going to need to be repaired. So we waited. And waited. I decided to start texting an calling people! It was a good way to catch up!
Arrival in Managua was amazingly smooth. This is probably the most relxed Central American capital I have been to. Certianly not as hectic as Guatemala City and it feels safer the San Jose (although everyone reminds you to be safe).
I wandered around town at sunset tonight, which was nice. I found my way up to the statue of Sandino on the top of the volcano. It gives pretty amazing views of the City and mountains. It is amamzing, I never thought of Managua as beautiful. But it is. Mountains and water always make a place look great!
Tomorrow is a bit more site seeing and then perhaps off to Grenada!
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