Saturday, March 19, 2011

The Softer Side of Medellin

The hustle and bustle of Medellin are really amazing. Lots of people everywhere. Just a lot of stuff going on all the time. So today I decided to try to take a more low key approach and visit some of the city`s quieter and perhaps understated sights.

First stop: Cerro Nutibara. Atop this quiet hill not to far from downtown they have created a little village to remind the people Medellin what the "Paisas" (country people) lived like. Just a little replica. Well the replica was fine, but what was really outstanding were the views. Medellini sits in a valley surrounded by mountains and it was a beautiful view all around of the mountains, the city, the whole area. Certainly worth the steep hike to the top.

Second stop was the Cemeterio de San Pedro. Now must people know I have a fascination with cemetaries and I always have. I think there is something cool and a bit crazy about them. i also feel they are a really peaceful place for you to be with your own thoughts. In fact, I like to visit them. Weird, I know. Regardless, this cemetary was billed as a "sight" in Medellin. Of course I had to go. It was remarkable. I first noticed that it was surrounded by these ridiculously high walls. Now I know that cemetaries have always been vulnerable to theft but these were at least two stories tall. that was until I went in. The walls were actually the tombs. The place was massive. There were thousands and thousands of "holes" in the walls that were filled. Some were filled with bodies (decaying I am sure) some were filled with ashes (on site crematorium!), but they were never ending. It looked like some of the bodies had been moved there after they were buried somewhere else, but it was truly incredible. i was in a similar place in New Orleans, but that pales in comnparison to what I saw today. There were places where the tombs were fifteen high. There were multiple levels. There were mausoleums in the middle. But what was truly remarkable about this place was that all the more recent tombs were decorated. Some with real flowers and some with fake flowers as you would assume. But there was much more. There were banners, pictures, and notes. These things were COVERED, completely. Some you couldnt even see the writing on it. there were pictures with friends, portraits, you name it it was there. One cool thing was that someof the stones were inscribed with the persons signature engraved on the stone. Remember this is two and three stories tall with lots and lots of stuff. Some were in glass cases, and my favorite, one tomb was encased in burgler bars that you find over windows and doors. It was a quiet and peaceful and colorful place. you will have to wait for the pictures.

The third stop today was the botanical gardens. They are about a full city block and a quiet respite from the city. There were relatively few hawkers there so it felt like a total different city. People having picnics, drinking wine, feeding ducks, and lots of tropical flowers. They were setting up for a wedding and it would be a beautiful spot for it.

So I am glad that I found the softer side of Medellin. It is a remarkable place. Overnight bus to Cartagena tonight!

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