TSA Needs Lessons from the Colombian Police Force

An outside concert in Bolivar Square was just the right way to end my trip to Colombia. I returned to Bogota to catch my flight tomorrow and had about half a day to wander around the city. I repacked my bag and then was off checking out the Candelaria neighborhood again. I had a coffee at Juan Valdez coffee shop and then just enjoyed being back in the capitol city.

After dinner, I wandered down to the main square and was able to attend this free concert outside. It was a bit of a weird style music, but they had the full staging set up with a jumbotron, and activities on the side. Sort of a mini music festival. Very fun. As with everything in Colombia, there was certainly a strong police presence. The Square was sectioned off and to get in you had to go through a thorough search. They checked through bags, looking through and rifling through all your stuff. Then they gave a good pat down (checking for weapons). If anyone thought the airport security was intense, hasn´t had a pat down by the Colombian Police force. These guys were not messing around. Checked every pocket, the hems, the lining of my fleece. They were there to keep the peace and were certainly going to do their part! It does give you a sense of secrity though. I guess that is what happens when you are reclaiming your country from drug lords.

I decided to head back to the hostel when the crowd was getting feisty. I bunch of drunk young Colombians, through bottles, etc. It was time for me to head back home. Regardless, it was a great way to end the trip.

Early flight tomorrow with a LONG layover in Miami. Maybe I will get searched again!

Playa Blanca is Playa Relaxing

I just returned from a wonderful respite on Playa Blanca. This is the kind of place that just exudes relaxation. Basically because there is nothing else to do and it is too hot to want to do much else!

You have to take a boat here and you need to be a bit hardy. Certainly not a place for someone who wants to be pampered, but a place where you go to get away from it all. I took a little boat and arrived in the morning. I was told, get off the boat and go left and you will find a place to stay. So I did. I went left down the beach and you find all these places with tents and hammocks. That is it. I rented a hammock with a couple of British guys I met who were on a gap year. The check in proces? Well it was choosing my hammock. Room service? just yell to Margarita what you want (en espaniol of course). Basically it was really a few hammocks strung across the beach under a thatch roof. You are surrounded by the waves crashing on the beach. Somewhat Idyllic. Now if you want a nice bathroom and a shower and AC, don´t go to Playa Blanca. but if you want to sit and enjoy the sun, sand, and water, it is perfect.

Margarita cooks too. and brings water, sodas, or beer if you need it. She was like the queen of the beach barking orders and getting results. The sun goes down, an you sit by candle light until the candles go out. Then you look at the stars for a while, then you sleep. It was great. The bathroom was a step up from a portapotty or an outhouse, a non-flushing sort of basin. Margarita kept the area very light an clear, but get yourself sorted out before 8:00 when she goes to bed, because after that, the bano is cerrada (closed). Sadly the kitchen was in the same area (and the flies seemed to be enjoying meals in both places) When we asked where to go, she pointed to the sand next to us, next to the hammocks, and next to the tables. Brought to mind that old saying "don´t shit where you sleep/eat".

The night was great and I slept really well under my mosuito net. With the wind strong the waves crashed hard and it was great to sleep to that. Sadly though, the wind off the sea kept everything a bit damp so when the sun came up it was great to finally "dry out". Margarita had some coffee for us in the morning. So nice that I read two books while I was there! It was really lovely. Really great. A few beach hawkers, but overall, really really nice. A great way to spend some of the last few days of my trip. Still a bit burned...hopefully healing soon!

I am back in Cartagena for the night, Fly to Bogota tomorrow and then Fly home on Saturday!

I always liked Zebras...

...I just never really wanted to look like one. Since 1999 (when I was terribly sunburned in South Africa) I have always been a big believer in sunscreen. I am a firm beleiver that you need #15 and that is all a long as you are smart and reapply as needed. I have successfully navigated myself out of any bad burns for several years now and I am happy for that.

Today, I slipped up. I was trying to decide what to do with the day and was walking down to by my boat ticket to Playa Blanca (supposedly the nicest beach in teh Cartagena area). It is a bit remote and doesn´t have running water, etc. I think it will be a perfect escape for my last few days of Spring break. But I digress. I had gone to fnd out info and to perhaps purchase a ticket. I realized how close I was to the BocaGrande beach in Cartagena. This is where all the high rise hotels are, etc. I decided jut to keep walking and scout it out. After all, I had my hat, my book, and my sunscreen.

The beach is covered with these little makeshift cabanas that you rent for the day. There are men who ask you if you want them and you negotiate a price. Never one for sitting under things on the beach, I went instead for the Chaise down by the water. It was one of those windy, warm, cloudy days, you have been warned about. I knew it. I pay my money (about three bucks) settle in and pull out the can of sunscreen. Start to spray to realize that it was nearly empty. Shame. I put on the little bit of lotion that I have and figure, it is not all that sunny, I will be fine, or at least I will feel the burn as it happens.

Throughout the afternoon I never really got to hot; the wind cooled me off quite a bit. I sat there from about 11:00-2:45. I know better. I really do.

As I was leaving I felt the skin on my shoulders tighten up a bit and thought that is weird. The same with my legs. I could tell my fae was a little burned as well. Shame. Basically, of course, the areas that were covered with Sunscreen were fine. tood bad it ran out so I couldn´t apply it evenly. So my lege are striped, up and down. The same with my arms. My shoulders? A deep red/maroon. The worst part though? The worst striping? Oh yeah. My face. I had my baseball cap on backwards so I could read, as well as my sunglasses on. You guessed it. Red, white, red, white, red. Shame. I really am an idiot.

Today is probably the worst burn I have had in years. Thankfully I am not a totally burned, but rather in some isolated areas. I already took a cool shower and will have another tonight. You can imagine how excited I am to spend the next two days on the beach (and carry my pack)! Live and learn, forget and burn.

Lazy Day in Cartagena

Today was a lazy day in the city. I had a nice sleep in, followed by a morning with two new museums. The Naval museum was amazing with its models of the 100´s of forts that were contructed by the Spanish around the area to protect Cartagena from invading countries and pirates. I also checked out a convent museum and yet another church. This church actually had the remains of Pedro Claver. He was a monk who lived in the convent (hmmmm) but was revered among the African slaves that were here. In fact, his remains were built into the alter of the church and you can see his skull. I guess after he was entombed in the walls they decided to pull him out and build him into the Alter.

After a leisurely lunch, I decided to take a little nap and then do a little shopping around town. Basically a day of relaxed energy. For those hoping for some Emeralds from Cartagena and Colombia, not sure that it is going to happen. Too bad I am not a gemologist. That said there are some beautiful things (which could just green glass beer bottles, I wouldn´t know the difference)!

I had a sundowner (or two) on the walls of the old city during sunset. As always, sunset is spectacular when viewed over the ocean. The changing colors always make one happy. I am off to find some dinner. The plan for the next few days may be adapted. I may be off to see some forts tomorrow instead of a volcano. We shall see.

The three H´s of Cartagena

After a seemingly endless, and somewhat unremarkable bus trip (was about 14 hours all told), I finally arrived in Cartagena at the coast. While the buses may be freezing when you are sitting stationary for 14 hours, the city is certainly not!

Cartagena is set on the Carribean and you can certainly feel it in the air and atmosphere. Where Bogota was stiff and staid (and cold), Cartagena is let loose kind of place. You can sense the Island and Carribean in everything from the music to the people. Maybe it is becuase it is a vacation destination, but it is relaxed, feels safe, and I plan to thoroughly enjoy it here. One thing though? It is Hot and Humid and looks like the week will be Hazy. I am glad the that hostel has some AC to keep me sleeping well.

I spent the day on a low key walking tour of the city. It was nice. I saw the Inquisiton and Cultural Museum as well as the small but nice gold museum. I wandered down to the water and basically had a low key day. (Part of that maybe that my irongut seemed to develop a crack in the last 24 hours, shame). So I spent the day nursing myself back to fitness with a low key day (and some water, and I am about to try some food).

Colombia has been remarkably free of post cards. I was happy to find a few shops that are selling them today, so I will be buying and mailing those soon. It also seems that there are quite a few venders and hawkers lining the streets at night, so I may do a little browsing of that stuff too.

Call me a chicken or a wimp, but I purchased a plane ticket for Cartagena back to Bogota. The bus trip was a mere 18 hours (certainly I have managed that before on much lesser of buses) but for a $25 difference, I figured that was money well spent. I fly to Bogota on Friday midday and then fly home on Saturday. So it looks like another day in town tomorrow, Tuesday heading to a volcano, and then Wednesday and Thursday on a remote beach! We will see how the plan develops.

The Softer Side of Medellin

The hustle and bustle of Medellin are really amazing. Lots of people everywhere. Just a lot of stuff going on all the time. So today I decided to try to take a more low key approach and visit some of the city`s quieter and perhaps understated sights.

First stop: Cerro Nutibara. Atop this quiet hill not to far from downtown they have created a little village to remind the people Medellin what the "Paisas" (country people) lived like. Just a little replica. Well the replica was fine, but what was really outstanding were the views. Medellini sits in a valley surrounded by mountains and it was a beautiful view all around of the mountains, the city, the whole area. Certainly worth the steep hike to the top.

Second stop was the Cemeterio de San Pedro. Now must people know I have a fascination with cemetaries and I always have. I think there is something cool and a bit crazy about them. i also feel they are a really peaceful place for you to be with your own thoughts. In fact, I like to visit them. Weird, I know. Regardless, this cemetary was billed as a "sight" in Medellin. Of course I had to go. It was remarkable. I first noticed that it was surrounded by these ridiculously high walls. Now I know that cemetaries have always been vulnerable to theft but these were at least two stories tall. that was until I went in. The walls were actually the tombs. The place was massive. There were thousands and thousands of "holes" in the walls that were filled. Some were filled with bodies (decaying I am sure) some were filled with ashes (on site crematorium!), but they were never ending. It looked like some of the bodies had been moved there after they were buried somewhere else, but it was truly incredible. i was in a similar place in New Orleans, but that pales in comnparison to what I saw today. There were places where the tombs were fifteen high. There were multiple levels. There were mausoleums in the middle. But what was truly remarkable about this place was that all the more recent tombs were decorated. Some with real flowers and some with fake flowers as you would assume. But there was much more. There were banners, pictures, and notes. These things were COVERED, completely. Some you couldnt even see the writing on it. there were pictures with friends, portraits, you name it it was there. One cool thing was that someof the stones were inscribed with the persons signature engraved on the stone. Remember this is two and three stories tall with lots and lots of stuff. Some were in glass cases, and my favorite, one tomb was encased in burgler bars that you find over windows and doors. It was a quiet and peaceful and colorful place. you will have to wait for the pictures.

The third stop today was the botanical gardens. They are about a full city block and a quiet respite from the city. There were relatively few hawkers there so it felt like a total different city. People having picnics, drinking wine, feeding ducks, and lots of tropical flowers. They were setting up for a wedding and it would be a beautiful spot for it.

So I am glad that I found the softer side of Medellin. It is a remarkable place. Overnight bus to Cartagena tonight!

Overnight buses arent always terrible

Gearing up for a long bus journey always takes some organization. What can I bring that will be warm? (night buses are nortoriously cold) How much water do I want to carry? (at least a bottle or two) How many times can I go to the bathroom before I am trapped on a bus? (about five times is my average) Can I get a seat towards the front? (I like to look out the windows) How many times will we stop en route? (hopefully a few: bathroom breaks)

Well, I was distraught on the first part of the journey but then super psyched about the second part! I had reserved a seat on a 7:00PM bus to Bucaramanga and then had to switch to another bus to Medellin. I had traveled with this comnpany before, and it was a great experience. Sadly, I was rushed on a minibus for the first 2.5 hours without a trip to the bathroom. Whether I really needed to go or not, I did spend 2.5 hours telling myself I didnt. Shame.

I got to Buca to this huge terminal, only to find out that my company had a VIP lounge I could use. Air conditioning, quite time, free water and coffee. Kind of heavenly. This followed by having Seat 1, right behind the driver. yay. I had packed a fleece and a jacket to keep warm and of course I needed them.

The best news of the trip was that the seats were like Airline business class seats. Not only did they almost lie flat, there were foot rests...I was pretending I was sitting in a recliner and was able to get right to sleep. It was perhaps the most comfortable long bus ride I have ever had. My seat mate was a Colombian guy who wanted to practice English so we talked for a while. Nice guy trying to tell me all the hotspots of Medellin. We stop once in the morning at 4:00 or so, with only four hours left of the trip it was a great ride.

Arrival in Medellin, I find a luggage storage place. It continued to make my day. I grabbed what I would need for a couple of days in my little pack, stored the big bag, and was off and running in the city. While the hostel leaves a bit to be desired, so far, my day has been great.

Medellin is a busy, busy city. I saw a couple of great museums today, had some good coffee, enjoyed the bustle of the city. Not sure of my plans for tomorrow, but I am going to head out tomorrow night on another overnight bus to Cartagena. I can only hope the experience is as positive!

Flying High

I felt like I was Harry Potter today. I was flying high above the tree tops, then swooping down until my toes almost touched the ground, then flying back up high. It was a great ride and I really felt as if I was flying. And I was, kind of. Paragliding was certainly a highlight so far, even if it did leave me a little motion sick.

San Gil is famous for having a great spot to paraglide and it didn´t disappoint today. After a long drive up hill, seriously uphill, we got to the edge of teh cliff atop a high "hill" outside of town. I was expecting a saftey breifing, a lesson, a something. What I got was strapped into a harness, attached to some guy, and then lift off. Basically they pulled up the parachute and it lifts you right off the ground. Amazing. My mother wouldn´t want me too close to the edge. I didn´t even need to be. Up and away. I was flying.

My "guide" loved it up in the air and was cheering and yelling, we were doing all sorts of tricks. It was like the best possible roller coaster for 20 minutes. Non-stop twists and turns, almost with my feet in the treetops and then a quick sharp turn and then we were floating back up. It is hard not to love it. It was so quick and so fast. It was amazing. Paragliding is now highly recommended. I guess I really am into adrenaline sports.

We were up over a valley on the edge of the canyon and lots of coffee farms, etc. Great views, a little hazy, but it doesn´t matter when you are flying. At least I got one new picture of me and the guide!

Next stop, Medellin. Overnight buses, gotta love ´em.

Whitewater Rafting, Colombian Style

What a day! Woke up, showered and was out of the hostel by nine. I headed to the fresh furit market to have soem nicely pressed juice of some sort. (Trying to be brave and try some mixed variety). I went to this fruit stand yesterday and had some sort of fruit milkshake. He asked " leche y agua" I looked and said "si" and he said "leche", but his assistant said "no, agua". He said "no, leche". I said "si". I got the milk. It was delicious. This morning it was all about the "ensalda de fuitas". for a buck a huge bowl of fresh fruit smothered in condensed milk. (more on the condensed milk later). So good. I am heading back tomorrow!

Today was about rafting though, and our trip left to hit the Rio Suarez river. I had forgotten how much fun rafting can be. I was in a boat with a couple of other Americans, a polish guy, a brit and an aussie. We had a great time. The rapids were class 2-5 although maybe really just 4+, but it was a great time. At some points you could float in the river and the guide was just great. lots of fun.

This is a small company and there were only two boats on the river today. In fact, the river had been "closed" for a few days due to water levels and dangerous conditions. I lucked out. The funny part to me today was that on the way to the river we kept picking people on the side of the road. Now this is not unusual for buses but we were picking up several of the guides and safety kayakers. One even sat on the roof! Needless to say we made it down the rapids with out anyone falling out of the boat and the boat not tipping. It was fun and we ended up with a snack on the side of the river at the end. My only complaint? The ride was too short, but I guess today the river was moving faster than normal.

I have once again fallen in love with piraguas. These are freshly made snow cones, where the person grinds the ice in front of you and adds the flaver of your choice. Then they add a little honey and cover it with condensed milk. If ever asked at home about condensed milk, I am sure I would balk a bit, but it seems when you add it to stuff in Latin America, I cant get enough. So sweet, so good. Today, my favorite piragua lady in San Gil (I have tried a bunch) remembered my flavors without asking. Gotta love the service from a street vendor. And all this goodness for about fifty cents.

Culinary Delights?

I was feeling adventurous today. I decided to put on hold the action and adventure of paragliding, for a day trip from San Gil to yet another picturesque colonial village and a minibus ride with gorgeous mountain views. A hint to my readers: Gorgeous mountain views is a euphemism for: harrowing-journeys-on-sketchy-mountain-roads-in-need-of-repair-becuase-mudslides-have-taken-out-part-of-the-road-with-drivers-going-really-fast-passing-blindly-on-corners-with-no-guardrails. I think I needed my old "motion sickness acupressure bands" lately.

Barichara was a place not to miss and it was a quaint village with a beautiful chruch and a nice square. One of the main reasons I went there, though was to hike on the El Camino Real. It is an old pathway between Barichara and Guane. It is listed as a two hour hik in each direction and I thought it would make a great day trip. I was right. Barichara is great. The walk was amazing (down hill, actually down a steep mountain path) to Guane. I loved the day. I was of course committed to not letting it take me two hours in either direction (proving all the guides and books wrong) but I still took my time and enjoyed the views, the scenery, the goats, the chickens, the cows, and the farms along the way.

Feeling inspired to try new things and not be chicken, I was seduced into a very local restaurant in Guane. I was the only tourist in this sleepy little place. In fact I didn´t even see a car there. The locals dragged me in and asked what I wanted to eat. In my very broken spanish I decided to try something new and I asked for "pepitoria". The owner and his wife asked a question I didn´t understand. "Si" I said. Then he asked another question with a weird look and had me look at what the other four patrons were eating. I guessed it was pepitoria and it looked like ribs or something. "Si", I said again. The old guys were also drinking beers with it so I ordered one of those too. Going local, I was. It wasn´t ribs. At all.

It came on a plate. It looked like a short thigh bone that had been broken, with a pile of rice, what I think was some yucca, a little salad and what looked like a wierd version of a meat stuffing. Being the polite boy that I am, I tried it all. And of course the local lunch eaters were watching with great interest. The meat on this bone was good, fatty but good. The lead local guy told me to eat it with my hands, I tucked right in. I think it might have been pig. The yucca, salad and rice, fine. The meat stuffing was well intresting. I thought it was a liver based thing, tasted a little gross but I kept at it. Well, I did a little google search. Turns out it was a blood pudding. While I can´t read through all the recipes (in Spanish), I know they are all based with "sangre" which is clearly blood. In this case congealed blood. Mixed with a little liver for good measure. In fact, in most cases I could find, it is goat´s blood. Which makes me assume I ate a goat leg, but who really knows.

After the long hike back to Barichara, I decided to try it´s local delicacy, Ants. Yes, ants. Dead, dried, seasoned, crunchy ants. They actually weren´t half bad. You can pop them in like popcorn. Maybe they will be the cure for my potato chip problem? Maybe not, but they were tasty in a small amount!

Overall, a day of experimentation. I think I might stick with empanadas tonight.

A brush with the Police

Sunday. A quiet day in Colombia. I left Tunja to head to one of the most picturesque villages, Villa de Leyva. It was a minibus ride through the mountains over a main road (which is about as wide as Day Ave.) with gorgeous mountain view. This is an old colonial city with a huge central square (again no outside cafes) and some very nice architecture. Basically it is used for movie shoots and TV and pictures becuase it is beautiful and nesteled in the mountains.

I jumped out of the minibus for the day of leisurely walking around taking in the ambiance and perhaps having a nice lunch and a good cup of coffee. One of those lazy days. I was digging in my backpack to pull out my camera when I am suddenly surrounded by the Police. Two guys had video cameras, and another had a regular camera. I could only imagine I was going to be in a Colombia version of Cops...bad boys, bad boys, watcha gona do, watcha goon do when they come for you....

They surrounded me and started asking question in Espaniol. Well since earlier in the trip I had forgotten that Nombre means name and not number. I was at a loss. They finally grabbed the English speaking "star". It turns out that I wasn´t being arrested but they did need my help in creating video...a training video for the Tourist division of the Police. Of course all of this was on tape, but not the "good bueno tape" that they would use.

So feeling the opportunity to be a star (and always looking out for my kharma with the police) agreed to be in the video. I had to approach the cop and ask him about a hotel and how to get there. Then about the square, and then a history question. The cops were supposed to be polite and friendly and helpful. Overall it took about 30 minutos, but it was fun and the gaggle of police seemed really happy with it. Most of these guys were pretty young and it could have been pàrt of their compulsory service. I couldn´t find out too much, limited Spanish here.

I left to journey on to Villa De Leyva with a bunch of high fives and cheers, and with the Colombian star smiling. Then I had my cup of good coffee.

Currently, I am in San Gil, the adventure capital of Colombia!

Inside Cafes on a gorgeous day....

Today has been great. Just what I needed. I wanted to have a little break from the pace of Bogota, so I took a bus to Tunja. It is a little town a few hours from Bogota, with an incredibly different feel. It is relaxed and safe, nice people everywhere, enjoying a beautiful sunny pace on Plaza de Bolivar (yes, another one). it was one of those picturesque days that just make you happy. Tunja is set in the countryside and there is gorgeous countryside all around this small city.

I splurged on a hotel for this stay (a whole $15) but I get my own room, my own bathroom and a TV! This is a small very local hotel in a great location and it is just what I wanted. I went and saw several churches and the two hosue museums this afternoon followed by some time on the plaza!

Interesting to note about Colombia: All there cafes only have tables on teh inside. Here we are around a huge central square, or even a small "plazoleta" and there are a bunch of cafes. But unlike most places I have been, the cafes only have tables on the inside. I am used to cafes having tables outside on a street or on a square, but here you must sit inside for your latte, tinto, or cappuchino. Strange. It is a beautiful square on a beautiful day and you are inside. Even weirded to me is that inside of some places they have the tall kerosene heaters to keep you warm.

I am enjoying the cheap empanadas though! I am staying in this area until Monday morning!

Decisions made, Safety first!

After another glorious sleep in this morning, I got and and decided I needed to make some decsions. (That was the first one.) Basically, I needed to get a plan and probably figure out my next few days. So while I was rolling around in my bunk, I decided that I was getting out of Bogota tomorrow, spending the weekend in some beautiful colonial villages. Sounds great. I got up, bought my bus tickets and ordered a taxi; it is going to be a beautiful day.

Next decision, what to do with my day in the city. I decided to think this over at a new restaurant I found called "Waffles and Crepes". Why don´t they have these in the US? They would make a fortune. Basically you can get a crepe as a meal or a dessert, the same with the waffles. They also sell coffee, ice cream, and a variety of other things. I was so happy! A crepe with Queso, Jamon, and Huevos. Yum. It put me in the mood to decide what to do. I decided to go to the top of Cerro de Monserrate. At the top of this mountain which dominates the sky line is (what else) but a church.

I had originally planned to hike to the top on the path used by pilgrims. It is 1500 steps. This of course is the dangerous route where muggings at knife point are regularly reported during the week. This being a Friday I thought "well maybe". Even to get to the start, there are warnings about muggings. hmmmm what to do. So I decided on two things: one, I would walk to the base of the path, and two decide when I get there. Knife point, I laugh in the face of knife points! I am tough, I can do it.

So I hike up to the beginning of the path. Once there I realize that there are tons of signs reminding people of danger. You don´t need to read a lot of Spanish to know what they are saying. Then I realize that the cable car station is right there, so I decided to take the cable car...I figure this would be the smarter and safer route. For seven bucks, it is probably worth it.

The top of the mountain affords you amazing views over the city of Bogota and it is really an amazing place to be. As you walk around there are a bunch of paths that take you around on the top of the mountain. They also have speakers playing some Gregorian chants on the top. It is a quiet and peaceful place. One path has the Station of th Cross made in some beautiful sculpture. It was really great. AFter a while of wandering and thinking, Mass started in the Church. I took advantage of this and while it was all in Spanish, I did get some praying on.

Super peaceful, amazing views, what more could you ask for.

I came down the mountain and hit a couple of different cafes to sample some of Colombia´s finest coffee. They make is strong here, just the way I like it. It was quite good. Tomorrow, I leave Bogota and head to Tunja and Villa de Leyva for a couple of days.

The Trans-Milenio

After yesterday´s long journey, I started today off with what Suffield students would call a double (or perhaps triple) sleep in. It was good to get a good long nights sleep before tackling Bogota!

Museums and cathedrals, cathedrals and museums. I spent all day going from one to another. There are big museums and little ones, big cathedrals and little chapels. Overall, it was a great day.

I started with the Museo Botero. Fernandez Botero liked things chubby. Everything he painted or scultped was round, plump, chubby, Rubenesque. Big men, big women, big fruit, big horses, big buildings, bug sculptures, big Adam and Big Eve, Big man on a big horse. Overall he liked a bit of meat on the bones...seems almost like a fetish really. The museum also has some other very famous works by Monet, Picasso, Pisarro, etc. It was pretty cool. The Museo Botero is part of a complex that includes several other museums and I was abl to learn about Colombia´s money development, some history, some natural history, etc. It was good.

I made my way to the Plaza de Bolivar and that where it started with the churches, every where you look you se some church with something cool inside. I think I went into five different ones today...that´s a lot of praying for this guy. Overall, some are very ornate, some are much more subdued, and many have been or are being restored. I found the Police Museum and the big exhibit on Pablo Escobar. Remember him, huge drug lord shot down as he was running on the roofs in Medellin? One of richest men in the world and actually used some of his money for good in Colombia...and a lot of it for bad. He has a great story. I finally made it to the Colombia´s most famous museum, the Museo del Oro (Gold Musuem). It was really impressive. They have an amamzing collection of gold artifacts and have done a really nice job of displaying the work ( with a little bit of English too). One of the most amazing parts of the exhibit was that you enter in a round room and the doors close. You begin to har a Shaman chant and the walls and floor are covered with ancient gold work if very cool designs. The lighting is set with the chanting and it is a very cool experience. One I won´t forget soon.

The last thing I wanted to tell you about today is the Trans-Milenio bus routes throutghout Bogota. They are half bus half subway (although all above ground). See I am usually a little nervous about taking buses in new places. You never quite know how they work. How much does it cost, where does it actually go, when do I need to get off, etc. The Trans-Milenio or T (sounds familiar) works like a subway, it has one fare and you can transfer buses and there are stations, and it has specific routes. but it is a bus subject to traffic and traffic lights. Supposedly it has its own roads free from the traffic of Bogota, but this only leads to Trans-Milenio traffic. There are thousands and thousands of buses using these special lanes. It is somewhat amazing that they have created this very organized system. You buy a card with the number of trips you need, you go through a turnstile and you find your bus. Seems easy? the problem is the nubmer of people who are taking these buses is incredible. Remember the images in Japan of people being pushed into the subway cars? It was the same thing. People are all over each other trying to get in and out, the buses are packed. But it is a cool and efficient way to move a million people a day. Really. They estimate a million people a day take it. Wow.

Colombia via Avianca

After a long day of traveling I finally made it to Bogota. Buying my ticket last minute is usually my style for these spring break trips, don´t ask why, I am not sure either. It usually works out fine. This time however, it cost me a few extra bucks and I had a long day of travel.

It was sort of a day of surprises. Surprise 1: My flight from BDL which I thought was at 8:45 was at 8:25. Woops. I guess I need to check my tickets more closely. Thankfully there were no lines at security. Surprise 2: Charlotte Airport doesn´t really have good food on Concourse C. No Cinnabon for this guy. Surprise 3: Althougth you can buy your ticket through USA to Bogota, I was flying the third leg with Avianca. This is is a different terminal at Fort Lauderdale. That was fine, but I also had to check in, and although I didn´t have to recheck my bag, it was a bit of a process. Surprise 4: Avianca may be my new favorite airline! Comfortable seats, cup holders, power plugs, personalized TVs, adjustable headrests, FREE FOOD, and overall really nice service!

Arrived early in Bogota, to find out there was a shortage of buses to get us to the terminal. We sat on the plane for over an hour waiting for the airport to find some buses for us. Shame. Once in things were easy, immigration was quick, my bag was waiting for me and I cleared customs with no problem. Surprise 5: The security guard who approached me gave me a pat down that would make most blush (one that made me think of that guy with the TSA "If you touch my junk")all the while asking me if I was carrying over ten grand with me. Ummm No.

Got my taxi and checked into the Cranky Croc Hostel. So far so good. Six bed dorm with a big bed, lockers for your stuff and plugs. Surprise 6: the power and plugs here are the same as in the USA. Damn, I wish I brought my computer. I think I will settle in tonight, grab a beer, and get a good nights sleep so I can really get a good glimpse of the third highest capitol in the world.