80's music

I have forgotten to mention several times now, that in both Nicaragua and El Salvador, people LOVE 80's music! You want Air Supply or Journey, no problem. Poison, Ratt, and Motley Crue, done. You can pretty much rock out to all different types of 80's music. It is played everywhere. Buses, taxis, hotels, internet cafes. Everywhere. I thought it was just the easy listening type, but it seems to be all types. I guess everybody loves 80's music!

Wandering the streets!

The name El Salvador means "the savior". I didn´t realize that this country was named that. It is a pretty interesting concept. Also, that Jesus Christ is the patron saint of the city/country. Celebrations take place for the country and city in August.

Wandering around the city yesterday was great. I was at first a little worried after reading warnings about not taking pictures in the City Center, in fact, many people say to skip the city center all together. I have to say that I am glad that I threw caution to the wind and went with my own instincts. It was really an amazing day. The sun was shining, the walk was great. In fact, like in many cities, set up all along the sidewalks are little shops, etc. Well in continued all the way to the city center, but as you got closer, the shops branched off the sidewalks and into the road. Further into the center, these in road shops were more permanent with tile floors being built into the roads. The roads became so narrow, they were almost a pedestrian walkway, but with big smoke belching buses running by and almost running you down.

The Center was nice, it has some great little plazas as well as some churches (of course), and the National Palace, which was being remodeled, but has a great new museum that just opened up! I loved it. In fact I spent more time there then i had anticipated. In fact, it felt very safe to me!

I wandered from there to a nice quiet park, I had lunch from a vender and then saw art exhibit and a monument of Memory and Truth. Much like th Vietnam Memorial in Washington, this exhibit was names (25,000) carved into black granite (or marble) of the people who were killed or disappeared during the civil war. Pretty impressive.

I am heading off to the Anthropolgy museum today and then to the Zona Rosa. Should be a good day and then tomorrow to the airport for my 1:00 flight!

Safe San Salvador?

After a relatviely painless (although long) 11 hour bus ride, I arrived in El Salvador. After sitting on a bus for so long, it is good to get out and walk, so I found myself walking a bit with my bags and then decided to take a taxi to my hostel. I picked this place for a bunch of reasons. First, it was cheap, second, it seemed like one of the better locations int eh city, becuase so much of what you read says that different neighborhoods are unsafe! The place is fine, not great, but it will do. I looked at a bunch of other places and decided to stay where I am. Afterall, I have certainly stayed in worse, and their didn´t seemt to be too much better for the cost!

I did a fair amount of reading and researching on El Salvador before I arrived. Everything mentions that it is safe, although take precautions. That of course makes a lot of sense. It seems that the people here have also taken precautions. Every thing is surrounded by gates, burgler bars, and fences. Many of the fences are topped with razor wire. Most businesses have armed security guards at entrances. This includes some restaurants, bars and gas stations. Yes, San Salvador is safe, and its people take precautions. The websites weren´t lying!

I went for a long walk yesterday to get my bearings. While this is a big city, you can manage to walk it without too much trouble (but not after dark of course) and today I am off to the city center and a park. I already explored the modern art museum, and will be checking out a couple of others today and tomorrow.

Back in Managua

I made it safely back in Managua (another two post day)! Although La Costena airlines again proved to be a bit of an adventure! I was waiting for the panga (the shuttle boat to go between the Corn Islands) and a woman said that they would take me (and a couple of other travelers) to Big Corn for the same price in the same amount of time. Since the "official" panga wasn't any where in sight we decided to go for it. We get across the water and she then says, that she can't take us to the harbor (they aren't licensed for passengers) but drops us off on the side of the road! (She charged a little less for our "inconvenience"). Regardless, we got a taxi and got to the airport. As we are waiting to check in at La Costena, the guy in front of me pulls out a gun from his waist band, takes out the clip and checks it as baggage. They tape the gun and the clip together, along with a baggage claim tag, give him the stub, and I guess the gun is checked! Wow. i check my bag, and I can't remember in the last post about the airline, but not only do they weigh the bags, they make you jump on the scale and get weighed (with your carry ons) as well. Funny for me, humiliating I guess for many of the women!

It has been a great time here in Nicaragua and I am a bit sad to leave. I was able to do pretty much everything I wanted. I skipped San Juan del Sur (a very popular beach destination) for the Corn Islands and I am pretty sure I made the right choice. Interesting things aout Nicaragua: many of the roads aren't paved, some of the roads are paved with paving stones, people here work hard for their money, and their are a lot of very poor people, (like in many other poor countries) people sell everything in the street. Water is sold in little bags that you bite a corner off of and drink. Taxi drivers are desperate for your fare. All in all the people are super friendly, super nice, and very helpful. I really have enjoyed the time. Tomorrow, I take the bus to San Salvador. The bus leaves at 5:00am and I need to be there at 4:00am. I am staying steps away from the bus station so that is lucky, although the neighborhood isn't the nicest. (Why are bus stations always in sketchy neighborhoods?) The best thing is that I am staying in the exact room that I started this journey in! I haven't been able to do much souveneir type shopping, but there is nothing new or different that I have seen.

Anyway, great time here in Nicaragua! I hope El Salvador is as nice!

Little Corn Island

It is hard to explain how much I have enjoyed my time on Little Corn Island. It is the perfect getaway from everything. You feel a million miles away from any trouble, any worries, any stress. Over the past couple of days I have taken three dives. They were great, in fact, they were my first cave/tunnel dives and it was so chill and relaxed that you forget to be claustrophobic.

Basically the island has no cars (only wheelbarrows), no roads (on paths). It is not as cheap as the mainland, but considering where you are, how hard it is to get things here, it really isn't too bad. I had originally wanted to stay on the far side of the island. It is truly amamzing. Completely untouched beaches. Sure there may be a hammock or something, but no resorts, no big hotels, no massive amounts of people. You have to remember, that water is scarce, the electricity in the town comes on from about 3:00pm to 5:00am. Other then that there is no power, except for a few places with generators. You are really out there, and it is totally worth it. This will certainly be a highlight of this trip for me. I have met a bunch of people, all fun, all nice, all enjoying this out of the way place. It is so interesting because I can see why some people would feel that this is too far away without enough conveniences, but for me, it was perfect. Almost paradise!

La Constena Airline

Today I travelled back to Managua to the airport to catch my flight out to the Corn Islands. All seemed to be going well. I got the taxi to the bus to the taxi and I was settled at the airport a bit before 12:00. They had told me that I needed to get to the airport by 12:30 to purchase my ticket and whatnot. I was pretty happy about everything. When i arrive I am shuttled around and finally found the right line. I happily waited until she was ready (no hand in the face today). I move up and say, "I have a reservation #29." She replies, "do you have a ticket", "No but I have a reservation and they said that I can purchase a ticket when I arrive." "No, you must wait until 1:30 to see if there is room." At this point I thought I really am in the Seinfeld episode about reservations. You know the one, Gerry says "you know how to take the reservation, but you don't know how to keep the reservation and that is the most important part."

Basically, this airline is a bit like a bus. You by a ticket that is good for whenever, and then you make a reservation and turn up and jump on, no seat assignments. Well it all worked out and I got on the plane, after waiting an additional 90 minutes! Anyway, the plane. Let me tell you about it. It was of course a small (36) seat prop type plane that looked like it could have been in the Howard Hughes movie, something right out of the 50s almost. It was square, not really round. There was no underneath for the luggage. A lot of the baggage went in the nose! You entered from the rear and then found a seat. Loud, although efficient, we made it safely to Big Corn Island.

On another note, I had trouble with the security. They thought I had a knife. They serached my bag, and ran it through a couple of times, and still thought I had a knife. Nope. But you are allowed to take on liquids and I didn't have to take off my shoes!

I had decided to stay on Big Corn for the couple of days that I was here. As soon as I saw it though I knew I would need to head to Little Corn. he two kilometer-long island has a few hotels and restaurants and a dive shop and that is about it. I was really excited to stay on the western side in a hut on the beach. Sadly, they were full for tonight, but I will be checking it out again tomorrow and finding my little bit of Island paradise. As it is, I am in The Village, and the hotel is nice. I of course hadn't made reservations and that was the problem! I am hoping to sit on the beach, read, do a little diving, sit on the beach, etc. I am taking a vacation from my trip! How am I so lucky to be here!

Leon in a Day

Yes, Today deserved two posts!

I had a great day in Leon. I was almost talked out of coming here by a worker for an NGO who had said that it was a working class town and Granada was a lot nicer. I was feeling that I should perhaps not make the extra trek north to get all the way up here. I am glad that I did. It is certainly a bit different then the other cities I have been to and hoem to a number of museums and, of course, many churches.

I first bought a bus ticket to San Salvador for next week. I was actually a bit excited about this bus journey as I was planning to go Executive class. I am nost sure exactly what that is, but what I could figure out was that the seats recline almost all the way back, there is a food service, and it is just really nice. Unfortunately, I found out that Executive Class is full until the middle of April. So I guess I will be going where I belong in Economy class. Shame.

Once the ticket wsa purchased, I started my day by exploring about five different churches in town. They are all a short walk from each other and they are all unique in their own way. It is amazing to me the number of churches that are built within such a close proximity to each other. Leon in no different then the other cities. It is pretty amazing. The churches here look a bit weathered but they are all a bit different on the inside and all were preparing for Easter.

The first museum was dedicated to the victims and martyrs of the revolution. It is galleries of headshots of those who were killed. They all look young, they all look eager, they all look like my students, they all were killed. Wow.

I moved along to an art musuem. This is a well known museum in Central America and has some of the best works of art here. Amazingly it was an open air museum. No climate control, an open roof. There were fans in each of the rooms. So different. they opened and closed the shutters to the street to keep the sun off the paintings. There were Central American artists, of course, and they were well represented. But there was also Picasso and Chagall here as well. Pretty amazing for Nicaragua.

Finally, I hit the Rubin Diario museum. He is the well known (although not by me) poet from Nicaragua. Many things are named after him and he was from Leon and in entombed here in the main church. It was a few old beds, some pictures, some actual writings, and a lot of books. Not all that interesting, but free!

After a full day of wandering around the city, I was ready for a rest. Luckily for me in Leon, there is a park side cafe, serving very good cappuchino! It was the first one that I have found in Nicaragua (outside of a mall) and frankly, I was pretty excited.

It was good.

Well I am off now. Tomorrow I head back to Managua to fly to the Corn Islands for a few days. Although there are reports of internet access on these remote islands, I have been told that it is not reliable. They are really off the beaten path. So I may not be posting for a few days. I fly back to Managua on Tuesday and then off to San Salvador on Wednesday.

My Skin is Revolting

Yes, it is true. True, on so many levels. First, although I though I was clean after the two dusty (very dusty days hiking), I got in the shower last night to find that the dirt had stuck to me, regardless of all the washing and scrubbing I had done. By the time I was done in the cold shower, I was red and raw.

This morning I woke up to my face peeling. I thought it was just my chin. Come to find out that everything was flaking off. Next I felt my scalp start. Finally, my ears were peeling. It was all that flaky, kind of dirty looking peel. I, of course, didn´t bring lotion (other then sun lotion). My lips peeling were the last straw. I was gross to look at. I would rub the back of my neck and get a handful. I would scratch my forehead, there was more.

It really felt like all my skin was trying to get away from me! I say great. Go, Skin, jump off me. Jump off into the wind, or the sheets. Little does it know that the dust mites living in the mattresses are having a feast!

Four Buses and a Ferry

Today was a travel day. Meaning I didn´t see to much becuase I was trying to get from one place to another. I have to say, that my plan for the day worked perfectly, although it took seemingly forever!

A day by the minutes:

6:30 Wake up and shower

7:00 Check out of the hotel

7:15 Catch first bus from Ometepe to MOyogalpa (remember of course the buses are old school buses that stop and pick people up and drop them off all the way between towns)

8:30 Arrive at the ferry terminal.

8:31 Hand in the face from the ticket seller, she wasn´t ready yet.

8:42 bought ticket!! Get on ferry.

10:15 Arrive in San Jorge and jump a taxi to Rivas

10:35 Arrive in Rivas at the bus station.

10:36 directed to the right bus (again the school bus thing) and loaded bag on top.

11:00ish bus departs for Grenada.

12:40 Arrive in Grenada.

12:45 Find public phone to try to book plane tickets. They are at lunch.

12:50 Head to the Central Park for another Vigaron. (I told you I liked them).

1:20 Finish my lunch and find a phone.

1:27 Reservations made, head back to the bus station

1:29 Bus is driving by, (Managua, Managua, Managua is being yelled by the ¨helper¨) I flag it down jump on.

2:30ish Arrive in Managua find bus to Leon.

2:48 Bus drivers and helpers are angered that I got ripped off by the ice cream salesmen. They are very frustrated and talk about it (and to me) for about five minutes.

3:00ish Bus leaves for Leon.

4:30 Arrive in Leon find a cab to Hostel.

5:00 Relax and drink some water.

5:15 Explore city a bit, find some great street food, drink a coke and a pepsi.

5:45 Realize that my legs are tightening up from the volcano hike and sitting all day.


All in all it was a good, successful day and I continue to do better with my Spanish and talking to people. It was nice. Just a lot of transferring and sitting, moving and waiting.

The plan is to explore Leon tomorrow and stay over night. Saturday, I will travel back to Managua where I will fly to the Corn Islands for a few days and do some diving perhaps. They I will fly back to Managua and spend a night and then head to San Salvador.

A side note of interest (perhaps): Today was the first day that I have come close to spending my slef imposed $50 a day limit. I am still under it and I have paid for the previous two nights hotel and dinner, all the transportation (not the flights to the Corn Islands), and tonights hotel. Sadly, my towel was stolen, so I had to buy another one. Even with that, I haven´t spent fifty bucks yet. It is great when hotels with single rooms and private bathrooms are only $6 a night. Amazing.

Mestlitepe: The Menstruating Mountain

Volcano Conception, the larger of the two volcanoes on this island, has a very active history. She has erupted several times in the last 150 years and was last producing ash, etc., in 2004-2005. Due to her activity and the pouring hot red lava flows (when she is erupting), she has earned herself this name. What a

This morning my friend Sarah (she is a Canadian) and I got up at 4:30 to meet our guide at 5:00. We were off on our 18 km hike from the side of the lake to the top of the Mestlitepe/Conception. It was a nice 3km hike to the trail base and then 6 to the top. The volcano is famous for being almost a prfect cone to see and is pretty amazing. It is also known to be very windy and cloudy at the top (notice the foreshadowing). You start the hike through banana plantations on a dusty uphill path. It is about 5:30. Seems great! We get to the 'real' trailhead about 5:50 and we can´t go up until we see the guy who youhave to pay. Our guide said he will be here soon. About 6:20 or so we left and didn´t pay; no worries, he got us on the way down. As soon as you start the trail it is rocky, steep, and challenging. It was great. We took it slow and all was good. You are climbing on loose rock/gravel, all volcanic (obviously) and you need to be careful not to turn an ankle. We hiked up through lava flows, through short trees, through scrub bush, through mud. All the way we were happy because it was early and there was plenty of cloud cover to protect us from the sun. It gets windier, and wetter. Even the plants don´t grow any more due to the wind. All three of us are now soaked through our clothes; who knew youcould get so wet from clouds whipping by you. By about 10:15, we are ready to make our final assault to the top of the volcano. We go for it. Our guide said (en espanol, of course)you won´t see much too cold and too cloudy! We went for it any way.

The summit was amazing. Not only was it extremely windy, cold, and wet, but it was awesome to be on the very edge of an active volcano! There were patches of sulfur that had blown out on the ground, the views were stunning (for about 2 seconds when the clouds opened up). It was just truly a very cool thing to have done. The guidebooks all say this is a strenuous climb and that you should be in good physical condition. They weren´t lying!

The way down, however, was a bit treacherous. While going up the path you are able to scramble a bit and pull your self up and over. On the way down, you don´t have that same luxury. It was a rough climb down. Sliding, slipping, falling. In fact, I have never been on hike that took the same amount of time going down as it did going up!

All in all another great day on this island paradise. With my walking stick, hiking up a volcano, I felt a little like Gandolf, so I did throw a reed ring into the Volcano.

Tomorrow, I am off...still deciding where. Maybe Managua, maybe Leon, maybe San Juan del Sur. I have to make up my mind soon!

Kayaks, Ferries, and Waterfalls

The last two days have beena whirlwind of activitiy. After a great little Kayaking tour through the isletas of Grenada I made my way to Isla de Ometepe. I had met thse four pe3ople who were traveling to Ometepe and were taking the ferry directly from Grenada. I jumped into their group and we had a couple of great days. First was the ferry crossing. It would seem like it would be easy but in fact it wa a mission to check your bags. First they were weighed and you were given a piece of paper. Then you brought the paper to a window where they took it. Next you waited at another window where after writing a page full of details, you paid to check your bag. All in Spanish of course and all a bit overwhelming. Done.

Today we spent the day on the back of a pick-up driving around the island. This island was formed by two different volcanoes. We organized a guide and a truck to take us to see some petroglyphs,a nd a three hour hike to the San Ramon Waterfall. The water fall was great and the five of us were there alone and we were able to jump in the pool and rinse off the sweat in the spray. Pretty awesome. After the hike back, we rode horses to two great natural pools and swam for a while, before returning to Altagracia. Tomorrow, I am off on a volcano climb. Volcano Conception is the bigger of the two and still active. Should provide for a good c,limb. I am going with a woman Sarah I met and this hike will be about 10-12 hours. Details to follow.

Today was really a perfect day and off the beaten tourist track. Only pòssible due to a group. I am thankful to have bumped into these others!

Yucca snacks

After a good sleep and a good breakfast, I was helped to the bus station by Francisco and his mother and I was off. All the way to the station, Francisco's mother was giving travel warnings, watch your passport, put your wallet in the front, don't talk to strangers, beware of people selling drugs etc. It was very nice. This family was so nice to me over the course of a few days. I truly appreciate their generosity.

On to Grenada. I think I made a poor choice in terms of hostels tonight, we shall see. It was fine, but it will be hot tonight, but at six bucks, you can't really complain. After checking in and getting settled, I set out to explore the town on foot. I walked from one end to the other. What a great little town. There are plenty o Gringos and this place is certainly sued to the tourist trade, although it is very quaint and very nice. The main sights are of course churches. Some have been redone, some have not, some are in the process. It was a good day, and pretty uneventful.

I still love street food. I think I have written about it before, but I really do like it. I hope my stomach holds out. Today was this tortilla filled with stuff, some dried banana thing, the scraped ice snow cone, and a vigaron. The vigaron was my favorite. I didn't know what it was. It just looked good. And it was good. It is a pile of yucca, topped with a tangy cabbage salad and a big dried pork rind served on a banana leaf. It is hard to explain really, but think of mashed potatoes on a banana leaf with a spicy cabbage on top! Yum. And it was under $2. What a deal. I think I will have it for lunch tomorrow too.

Dairy Cows: Inseminated

After blogging, yesterday, we headed out to a bar/club in Esteli. Francisco´s father walks in, nobody says anything to him. Me? I have to pay the cover. They are after the gringos I tell you!

Today we were headed back to Managua and my plan was to head out soon after returning to Grenada, see the town a bit today and tomorrow. On the way back we decided to stop and spend some time on the dairy farms owned by this same business man mentioned above. Did you know that they can sex semen so that the cows are only inseminated to make female calves? Pretty amazing. I was able to meet the inseminator today, he road in (with the sperm frozen with Nitrogen) on a mule to find the four or so cows who were ready for action. A very high tech sex specific semen rides in on a sterile mule. How ironic.

The saddest news I heard today was about some bulls. They are excited, and excitable. When the inseminator can´t find all the cows in heat, they call upon these 'marker bulls' who sniff out and find the females and try to mount them. Sadly, for whatever reason instead of going straight, they seem to bear to the left or right, leaving the cow unfertilized and themself fairly frustrated. I guess they need to be careful as these bulls tend to become aggressive. Hmmm. I wonder why.

Breaking a Vow

Somewhere about five years ago, I decided that I would never smoke anything ever again. I was never a smoker and in fact found (still find) the habit a bit disgusting. I always joked you get stained hands, stained teeth, smelly clothes and then for the whopper, lung cancer. I have to admit I have had a cigarette or two. I will chalk it up (much like the high schoolers) as trying to be cool and a bit of peer pressure. Ugh. You would think I would be over all that. Anyway...

I decided I would never smoke anything again. I have stuck to it. Religiously, even. Even mocking those that have and do smoke. I guess all promises were made to be broken. Today was the day for me.

As you know I have been staying with a current student who´s father is a successful business man here in Nicaragua, and one of his businesses is tobacco. Not only does he grow it, he dries it, and then makes cigars! Having been a former tobacco picker myself, I was kind of excited to see where the tobacco goes after it is picked. (Point of Information: Tobacco grown in CT is known as CT tobacco (go figure) and is used solely for the wrapping of cigars, not the insdes.) All I can say is what a process. The conventional wisdom is that 300 hands touch every cigar that is smoked in the US and after today, I believe it. The leaves are dried, then they are left in humid conditions to ferment. This heat/energy as well as color change and flavor/odor. Clearly a chemical reaction is taking place. The drying leaves, in huge piles in a warehouse, have to be rotated so that they doo not get to hot, the temperature is taken and recorded, etc. They are kept moist and pliable, they are deveined. They are rolled and pressed, and rolled again, and kept moist. This can take up to a copule of years. Even the little paper rings on the end of the cigar are placed there by hand. Not to mention the poor women who was cutting out labels all day. Much of this work seemed like it would be fun for the Amazing Race (or for an hour) and then, a bit of fatigue!

Needless to say many of the cigar men were Cubans. I met tons of people. I wish I knew a bit more Spanish. What was amazing though is I was taught to taste the different flavors in different cigars. These men would pull leaves, and roll a cigar right there, and we would smoke it. I learned smooth vs strong vs not-yet-ready. It was pretty amazing. At every stop we would be having at least one if not three cigars. It was a great day, and one I am not soon to forget. I guess some vows were made be broken.

Private Tours in Spanish!

My original plan was to leave my bag at the hotel, see a few sights in Managua, and then head out to Grenada for a couple of nights. In the meantime, I called a current Suffield student (he is Nicaraguan) to say hello and try to arrange something for either today or later in the trip. His comment was do you still want to see our tobacco farm? "Of course!" "Great, I will pick you up in 20 minutes!"

Wow. What a great afternoon. I quickly left the peir where I was planning to have lunch and met up with him and we went on a great tour of things just around Managua which I would not have gotten to see with out a car and a driver. Francisco's driver was Alberto. It was great. I went to the top of an active volcano, saw some amazing lakes, visited a few markets, tried some local foods, and then even made the trip to Grenada to see the place, get a layout and come all the way back to Managua! Overall, it was great to see him here, great to have him explain the country through his eyes, and great to go to these amazing places.

This morning I saw Huellas de Acahaulinka. These are 6000 year old footprints made by a family of people walking towards the lake. Private tour #1 in Spanish. She asked if I spoke Spanish and I said no not really. But we forged ahead and it was great. I understood a bit, not too much but the tour was included with admission! Next was a taxi ride to the Zona Monumental and the pier. The National Palace was beautiful (it has been rebuilt after the 1972 earthquake) and that is where I got Priave Tour in Spanish #2. This one was much more successful and I actually learned quite a bit. Nicarauga has suffered some pretty major earthquakes which have devasted cities. Managua lies right along a fault line. I guess that is part of the danger with all the volcanos. The other amazing thing is to remember how "young" this land mass is. The land of Central America really formed from volcanic and seismic activity (much like Iceland). Pretty cool. One of the few buildings that survived the 1972 Earthquake was Cathedral, which is a beautiful building, however, due to lack on finances has never been restored. The center of the city has also moved from this location. What a shame.

Next I head to a tobacco farm, getting back to my routes from CT. I wonder if my picking skills are still there and if they will come in handy?

Taking Off...to Managua

As always, I tend to be a bit last minute. Maybe it is a commitment thing...shame. Anyway, I decided about a week ago to come back to Central America to see a bit more of the famed isthmus. But getting here was a bit more hectic then I had anticipated.

I didn't plan anything. I had a loose idea of my itinerary. While this is really my preferred method of travel, I was feeling a bit out of sorts about this, as I hadn't really done much research at all until last night!

I, of course, pack at the last minute. You would think by now I know what I need to bring with me when I am traveling. I actually did ok. with one major exception. I have become so used to my cell phone, I didn't bring a watch or clock. Now since I don't stay in the fanciest of places, I needed to have something that would tell me the time and wake me up in the mornings! Yay! Duty Free! Since I had an long layover in Miami I figured I would buy one there. I needed a new running watch anyone. Crisis averted (for $62).

Flight delays. The flight was late getting in to Miami, but we boarded. Then we were told that there was a leak with the hydraulic fluid for the landing gear and it was going to need to be repaired. So we waited. And waited. I decided to start texting an calling people! It was a good way to catch up!

Arrival in Managua was amazingly smooth. This is probably the most relxed Central American capital I have been to. Certianly not as hectic as Guatemala City and it feels safer the San Jose (although everyone reminds you to be safe).

I wandered around town at sunset tonight, which was nice. I found my way up to the statue of Sandino on the top of the volcano. It gives pretty amazing views of the City and mountains. It is amamzing, I never thought of Managua as beautiful. But it is. Mountains and water always make a place look great!

Tomorrow is a bit more site seeing and then perhaps off to Grenada!