There may be some traffic rules, but I haven't seen any followed. There are few (very few) actual stop lights, or stop signs, including at major intersections. And if they are there? Well, they seem to be sort of decoration, as no one seems to follow them. I have been on the back of a few scary motorbike journeys, in Bangkok and Cambodia, but nothing like here. Perhaps it is the sheer volume of bikes, but the way that they weave in and out of the very few cars on the roads is amazing, and terrifying. Traveling with my big pack on my back, on the back of a bike scuttling through cars, pedestrians, bicycles, traffic, etc. is dizzying. I have even seen a bunch of weddings here. Not sure how the bride and groom made it to the venue. But the guests all came on the back of motorbikes, dressed to the nines!
Today was the day to venture out of Hue and see the tombs of the Nguyen dynasty emperors. They are all buried in beautiful settings along the Perfume River. I had a choice: bike or motorbike. I went for it. Go big or go home. I rented a motorbike and set off to find the tombs of these past kings.
It was terrifying.
Leaving at "rush hour" wasn't the brightest idea either. The lady at the hotel said, "you know how to ride one?". A smile, wink and nod later, I was on the back of my bike. First order of business, get gas. Mre complicated than it seems, but nonetheless, almost uneventful until I was backing out of the station and almost knocked a mother and her kid off another bike!
Crossing traffic is hard. Remember there are no rules, no signals, you just merge. And this includes when you are crossing a lane of traffic. Maybe you red to ride going the wrong way? Just do it. Wrong side of the road? Perfect until you can cross. Shot out of town only missing one turn and nearly knocking two people off their bikes. Success. Then the railroad crossing...the lights were flashing but no one stops...just keep moving. The route out of town was under construction. Trucks, big trucks, were in the middle of the road. Swerve around them many avoid those others coming in both directions doing the same. Cars moving too slow, swing around them too. Whatever you need to do to keep moving. Finally made it to the tombs. Paid my $0.25 to park. And saw two different but amazing places. After watching the people who rented regular bikes, I figured I was actually safer, at least I had some power and speed to fall back on if nothing else!
Heading back into town I had a much better sense and a lot more comfort on the bike. Felt great, and was contemplating whether I should again explore a motorcycle back at home. Was about 70% back to Hue when I hit that construction patch again. Most people were mourning but I was just forging ahead...there are no real rules. Until I realized I was the only one going in the wrong direction. Apparently I didn't understand the signs that said I had to turn. Yet, again, after a few terrifying moments, I made it through the construction zone. Why didn't I turn around? That seemed too easy. Sometimes you just have to go for it!
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