Observations on Vietnam

A few take aways from Vietnam:

1.  They have worked hard on their tourist infrastructure, and it's noticeable.  I was amazed that the buses and trains ran on time and arrived on time.  (An aside: my train and one bus arrived an hour late, but I will count that on time based on my experiences in developing nations.)

2.  The Vietnamese accent is very difficult for me to understand.  I just couldnt get my head around the different sounds and that was a challenge through the whole trip.

3. It's a country that still is struggling with the scars of war. War hurts everyone. Everyone.

4. The climate is vastly different in the north and south.

5.  Motorbikes, while make for somewhat treacherous roads, have saved the nation.  If all those people were driving cars it would be continual gridlock.

6.  The Vietnamese really, really like their noodles.  (and you can only eat so much Pho before you want a cheeseburger.)

7.  Remarkably, every place I went had hot water.  If the Vietnamese can figure this out, it would seem that others in the developing world could too!

8. Ho Chi Minh created a nation and a national identity.  Clearly, he was a great leader....and still looks good in his glass sarcophagus. The Egyptians got nothing on Uncle Ho.

9.  The Vietnamese have fought fiercely to be an independent nation.  From  France, the US, Cambodia, China, the Soviets, The Russians, the Japanese, they have fought everyone.  And won. This perseverance has created a national identity.  

There is something special about this place, and as always, I wish I had a little more time to explore it. 

Are there any winners?

How to write about today? I will find it a challenge to put I to words my experiences today. Perhaps that is because no matter how you feel about the war in Vietnam, it impacts you, but more importantly it impacted a country. A country that is still working through the consequences and trials of events that happened forty years ago. 

The day started off normally. I was going on the half day CuChi tunnels tour. The tunnels were used by the Viet Cong for protection and surprise attacks and are located 50 km (30miles) from HCMC. The first stop was at a lacquer handicraft village. Several things made this place remarkable: all the craftspeople were victims of Agent Orange and were supporting themselves through creating the lacquer work. Second, the many stepped process and intensity it takes to create this artwork was amazing. We saw the process from the beginning. Work with egg shells and egg shell dust, the drawing of the designs, the painting, the cutting of the mother of pearl, the. Overcoat, the glossing and sanding and finally the polishing. The sheer volume this place puts out is amazing. While I wanted to support the program, I am not a huge fan of lacquer stuff!

Moving on we made it, finally, to the CuChi Tunnels. While the trip was only 30 miles, it took nearly two hours!  The tunnel complex is full of anti-American propaganda, as you would expect. There is a video describing in painful detail how inept the America forces were. An aside: while this complex is on south Vietnam, this was a stronghold for the VC. The danger was how close it was to Saigon and the southern government, and it was  at times the final stop on the HCM trail. 

The VC were very proud of the "farmers during the day, soldiers at night" routine and whole villages of people, men, women, children, elderly, were all part of the liberation movement.  They would pretend during the day to be happy local farmers, bit at night would be using their tunnels to attack the Americans and southern forces. Part of the tunnel experience is seeing all the different tiger holes and booby traps set to hurt and maim the opposition. It was pretty ingenious stuff the VC did to out smart and hurt us! They even figured a way to trick the German shepherds who the US employed to help!

The tunnels themselves are tight. Very tight and small. They Twist and turn and drop down different levels. There is 120m of tunnels open the the public. The are about as wide as a seat on a plane and you end up having to crawl through them. Certainly no room to stand. They drop down about te meters/30 feet underground. No wonder it was hard for the us forces to manage and fight against them. They had little access point hidden all over and would pop up and shoot and them hide in the tunnels. If the US GIs went after them, theyboften got stuck with the size if the gear. Overall, a cool testimony to the ingenuity of the VC. 

After a quick visit to the shooting range (and shooting an M30), we headed back to HCMC. And this is where the actual journey took place for me. 

The stop was the War Remnants Museum. The outside houses a large collection of US planes, tanks, and artillery. Cool to look at and take pictures. But the story begins when you enter the building. 

The museum is three floors and it is a powerful place. I had been expecting more anti-American and pro- Vietnam propaganda. What I found was a museum dedicated to exploring the toll war takes on a population: not soldiers, but the people of the country. It was powerful. The images speak for themselves, but it is incredibly well done. You first encounter more agent orange and dioxin victims who are volunteering and working to make a living. In many cases these people are disfigured, blind, and significantly handicapped. 

The museum goes on to tell a story of a country fighting for its independence, the world supporting a unified (and potentially  communist) Vietnam. And the sad atrocities of war. Not accusatory, but nonetheless, powerful in the role that the Americans acted in the history of this nation. It makes you realize that war impacts everyone in a country.  Not just the military, not just the armed forces.  And the approach of the US was troubling. They had a remarkably tough job. How do you know who your enemy is, when it can be anyone? A farmer, a mother, a child? Napalm and chemical weapons as well as tremendous bombing tore through a country. Who from their point of view. Just wanted to be unified under one government. 

The museum had powerful exhibits on the war protests, on peace demonstrations, on the effects of agent orange (still remaining today) and the photography of the war. Really, a place not to be missed.  Whatever your view of the war, you can't mistake that it claimed large number of civilian casualties and wounded. The estimate is 3 million Vietnamese died. 

Then I thought of our own war memorial and the work of our own troops, and the fight they had. They did what their country asked of them. They sacrificed for what the country beleived was the right course at the time. How can anyone judge them for their sacrifice and service. 

The take away for me:  there are no winners in a war. Everyone comes out a little worse and a little damaged. It is always the weakest, most innocent among the people who bear the brunt of attacks. 

Today had a major impact on me. In many ways it was a very hard day. Much like how I felt at Hiroshima and Auschwitz, this is a feeling I struggle with, but I hope to remember. 

Fast Paced Ho Chi Minh City

After an almost punctual bus ride to Ho Chi Minh City, I found myself at the center of Vietnam.  This is the place where everything kicks into high gear. If Hanoi is the cultural heart of the country, then HCMC is the heart on steroids. 

The French spent a lot of time in this city developing the place. They built wide boulevards that terminate at big landmarks. It is reminiscent of a European capital. Don't get me wrong it is uniquely Asian, with a colonial feel. Major landmarks are it's Opera House and Notre Dame cathedral. (The woman at my guesthouse told me it was "just like the one in Paris".  Similar? Maybe a little bit. )

Today's walking tour of the city included the tired Ho Chi Minh City museum. What was interesting about the place was really the planes and tanks displayed outside. I also enjoyed the currency display!  The museum was filled with kids in a school field trip who kept putting the bravest (probably fifth or sixth grader) up to talking to me. There was a wedding photoshoot in this building, and a sweet old man and what appeared to be his grandson who wanted pictures with me. Also the museum had been the presidents palace at one point and he had some bunkers and tunnels installed. More on that later. 

One of the main sights of Ho Chi Minh City is the Reunification Palace. So much of Vietnam's recent history plated itself out there. It stands on the sure of a former French palace and housed the president (last name of Diem). Since he was seen as a puppet of the US and an obstacle to a unified Vietnam (and he kind of abused his privilege as president) he was universally hated. So in a coup attempt, his palace was bombed by his own people. (Then he moved to the museum from above.). He decided to rebuild a thoroughly modern palace on the sight and hired a well known Vietnamese Architect. 

The building is classic 1960s feel. Big, airy, open, and with lots of concrete. Not a beautiful place on the outside. It is of course decorated like something out of Austin Powers, early 70s Asian chic. Basically it's like touring the White House, although it hasn't been the presidential home since 1975. The palace is impressive, most of the walls here are glass and there is a very open feeling here. Lots if high level meetings took place here with the US. There are pictures of Nixon and Kissenger meeting here.  It was here that south Vietnam  finally surrendered to the north in 1975. Basically the viet cong sent tanks down the Main Street and through the metal gates to take over the place in a very famous moment. Less than two days after the president had stepped down and went into exile. 

Remarkable here was that there were tunnels and bunkers here to protect the president as well. The Vietnamese really do like their caves and tunnels!  It seems that this was the major way to hide and protect themselves. Tomorrow I am off to the CuChi tunnels which were an extension of the Ho Chi Minh trail. 

No discussion of Saigon is complete without talking about its night life. People here like to go out. One of the major party streets is like nothing I have ever seen. Of course the lights, the neon, the small places, it's what you would expect. But not. The bars all fit a handful or two of people. They are basically store fronts. So it explodes on the sidewalks. The bars and restaurants out out mats and cardboard and just serve people sittingon the ground on the sidewalks. We are talkin about hundreds of people sitting on the ground drinki and eating. Where there aren't people, it is of course motorbike parking!  So people, cars, motorbikes, vendors, all are on the narrow street. Amazing. Like nothing I have ever seen. I was, of course, offered all sorts of pleasures walking down the street, girls, boys, weed, cocaine, some syringes filled with who knows what. Just another night in the big city. 

Let's go fly a kite!

I couldn't get that song out of my head all day!  Damn you, Mary Poppins. 

I have spent the last day and a half in Mui Ne. It is an upcoming beach resort place, as several of the others have been overrun with high rise hotels/resorts. In many places, hotels were built quickly and did not pay attention to things like beach erosion, so some of the famous beaches are struging a bit. Not Mui Ne. 

Mui Ne is a big arc of a beach with one half of it beautiful white sands, nice solid surf, lined with both big and small hotels ranging from a beach "bungalow" to the more traditional resort type places. Some are small, some are big, some are nice, others not, there are some real options. The other end of the beach, also had the same options at the same prices, just without the beach. There is a seawall that drops off about 15-20 feet into the sand and water. The "beach" at these places is  just a platform with some sand on it on a cement wall. Not terrible, but really the beach either. 

When I decided to come to this beach, I was searching for something similar to Otres Beach in Cambodia: quiet, remote, and chilled out.  Mui Ne is not that. It is a busy beach town, completed with a strip and some very good restaurants. I upgraded my hotel to stay at a place that had the beach in its back door and it helped me to remember that you often get what you pay for! 

Mui Ne is known for kite boarding. The water is warm and their is a constant wind which makes it a perfect place for kiteboarding. While I have seen people kiteboarding before, nothing compares to the hundreds of people out there today. Hundreds. This is one of those destination spots if kiteboarding is your thing. To be honest, it looks awesome. Really awesome. Had I a few more days, I would be taking lessons.  I imagine it feels a little like you are flying at times. That said with so many "kites" out there, Mary Poppins got into my head. All those things in the pictures that look like birds, kite boarders! Regardless, I enjoyed the hot sun, the warm water, and the cool shade!

Tomorrow is the last of the bus trips (5-6 hours) to Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon. I wonder what songs I will be singing there! 

Street "foodie"

I am a bit of a "foodie", someone who is a bit of a food critic. Why I have many friends who Beowulf describe themselves the same way, they are talking about fine dining. Quality cooking, you know where you need to balance out the acidity with something. We all are a bit of a food critic since Top Chef hit the airwaves. 

My foodie status does not come from the fine dining world, but rather the street food world. I think since my very first international trip to Greece in 1996 I loved street food. Actually I take that back. I think I was much younger wanting  pretzels and hotdogs from vendors in Boston and New York. 

Why street food? It is cheap, usually delicious, and readily accessible at all hours of the day. There is an element of surprise in there too, you don't always know what you are going to get! I have munched my way around the world eating often what I can find in food carts on the side if the street along the way. 

Southeast Asia has no fear about their street food. It is everywhere and Vietnam seems to be the king of the peninsula. There are food stalls on pretty much every corner. Low tables and stools a lady presiding over a huge hot with noodles and meat around her. The men seem to do the serving and money collecting. I didn't eat in a restaurant during the first seven days of my trip! 

One person decided to market this and created a "street food restaurant" made up of some of her favorite recipes. It was, of course, delicious. A little bit of comfort food goes along way in any culture. It wa of course a bit upscale street food with a restaurant price to go with it. But the idea is a good one!

  Mui Ne takes street food to another level. The local boats come back with fish and it is sold on the sidewalk. Later in the evening you can walk by these impromptu restaurants and see what they are cooking and choose what you want. The options are seafood (fish, mussels, oysters, scallops, squid, crabs, eels, shark, turtle, etc ) as well as some weird land creatures...snakes, geckos, frogs. 

As much as I love a random cheap meal from the corner some days, I miss a nice juicy cheeseburger. 

A little R and R on China Beach

After a lazy day in Hoi An yesterday, I figured it perhaps was time for me to make the trek to the famous China Beach where many American soldiers were sent for some R and R, during the war.  I can see why!  The beach is wide and beautiful and the South China Sea is cool and refreshing.  With the sun shining, it is understandable why American GIs would want to hang there.  

The beach is about five kilometers from Hoi An, perfect for a morning excursion before spending just A little more time in "the city".  Fueled bay need to do a little exercise I decided to rent a bike, a regular bike, and head out there.  Able to make only minimal adjustments, this bike was certainly not my Felt tribike from home. But at $1.50 for the day the price was right.  Much like the nonexistent traffic rules for motorbikes, bikes are on their own too, and without helmets to protect you!

One thing I have been noticing but became so clear to me today is how often the Vietnamese use their horns.  The blow them incessantly.  You hear them waking up in the morning until you go to sleep.  They want you to know: that they are behind you, they are closer to you, you should move to the side, or the other side, they are passing you, they want to give you a ride, there are cars coming behind you, there is a car in front of you. This horn blowing doesn't happen just once.  The same car can blow its horn ten times at you.  As a naturally jumpy person, horns always make me tense! But I guess with no traffic rules, you have to have some sort of order!

After at few more hours in town, I will be getting one bus for a seventeen hour journey south to one for the nations best beaches, Mui Ne.  Let's hope it is worth it, because this one was pretty spectacular!

Watching the world go by, Hoi An style

Hoi An is an old port which was frequented by the Chinese and Japanese in the nineteenth century.  It was an important place for trading with these two powerhouse countries back in the 1800s. All was good until the port silted up, long before they had dredgers. So what remains is a quaint old town with no tall buildings, some important temples and old historic homes and a certainly very walkable town. 

Because there are no big buildings, most hotels are out side of the old town. The streets are lined with store fronts from 150 years ago selling all sorts if textiles, souvenirs, and trinkets. Hoi An is famous for its tailors. If you have the time, they are willing to make any type of clothing you would like. Shirts, pants, suits, all custom made. Of course, sprinkled throughout all these shops are some very good restaurants and cafés. 

Hoi An is the kind of place where time stops, and you just wander and relax. You never really have too much to do, but you don't really want to leave.

Hoi An is the type of place that you want to sip some coffee and watch the world go by. And that's exactly what I did!

Biking through Imperial Hue

The motorbike scene in Vietnam is a bit like I have never seen before.  In Cambodia, they were everywhere, but old Kampuchea has nothing on the cities and towns of Vietnam.  I mentioned onanfacebook post that crossing the street is taking your life into your hands...and it is.

There may be some traffic rules, but I haven't seen any followed.  There are few (very few) actual stop lights, or stop signs, including at major intersections.  And if they are there?  Well, they seem to be sort of decoration, as no one seems to follow them. I have been on the back of a few scary motorbike journeys, in Bangkok and Cambodia, but nothing like here.  Perhaps it is the sheer volume of bikes, but the way that they weave in and out of the very few cars on the roads is amazing, and terrifying.  Traveling with my big pack on my back, on the back of a bike scuttling through cars, pedestrians, bicycles, traffic, etc. is dizzying. I have even seen a bunch of weddings here.  Not sure how the bride and groom made it to the venue. But the guests all came on the back of motorbikes, dressed to the nines!

Today was the day to venture out of Hue and see the tombs of the Nguyen dynasty emperors.  They are all buried in beautiful settings along the Perfume River.  I had a choice: bike or motorbike.  I went for it. Go big or go home.  I rented a motorbike and set off to find the tombs of these past kings.

It was terrifying.

Leaving at "rush hour" wasn't the brightest idea either.  The lady at the hotel said, "you know how to ride one?". A smile, wink and nod later, I was on the back of my bike. First order of business, get gas.  Mre complicated than it seems, but nonetheless, almost uneventful until I was backing out of the station and almost knocked a mother and her kid off another bike!

Crossing traffic is hard.  Remember there are no rules, no signals, you just merge.  And this includes when you are crossing a lane of traffic.  Maybe you red to ride going the wrong way?  Just do it. Wrong side of the road?  Perfect until you can cross. Shot out of town only missing one turn and nearly knocking two people off their bikes.  Success.  Then the railroad crossing...the lights were flashing but no one stops...just keep moving.  The route out of town was under construction.  Trucks, big trucks, were in the middle of the road.  Swerve around them many avoid those others coming in both directions doing the same. Cars moving too slow, swing around them too.  Whatever you need to do to keep moving.  Finally made it to the tombs.  Paid my $0.25 to park. And saw two different but amazing places.  After watching the people who rented regular bikes, I figured I was actually safer, at least I had some power and speed to fall back on if nothing else!

Heading back into town I had a much better sense and a lot more comfort on the bike.  Felt great, and was contemplating whether I should again explore a motorcycle back at home.  Was about 70% back to Hue when I hit that construction patch again.  Most people were mourning but I was just forging ahead...there are no real rules. Until I realized I was the only one going in the wrong direction.  Apparently I didn't understand the signs that said I had to turn.  Yet, again, after a few terrifying moments, I made it through the construction zone.  Why didn't I turn around?  That seemed too easy. Sometimes you just have to go for it! 

The Beauty of Cat Ba Island

Cat Ba Island.  One of the largest in Vietnam and steeped in some good history.  After leaving the great "resort" that I was at (had the weather been a bit better I might still be there!) on a smaller island across the bay from Cat Ba, we took a "ferry" to Cat Ba Town.  The ferry was a ramshackle, seemingly almost on seaworthy boat, not much bigger than a row boat and we sailed slowly across to the town.

Once in town we had the opportunity to visit a market...I of course was excited.This was a food and everything else market...think Target with a gritty, grimey feel, where they are slaughtering the fish and meat in front of you!  As I was wondering through the many stalls, I stopped to watch a woman clean a fish...this led to me making some friends and woman getting ready to marry me!  They kept offering up their friends, miming their different attributes.  This one is tall, this one can cook, this one has big boobs, etc.  Very funny.  These outgoing happy ladies got coy and shy when I tried to take their picture though!

From the market we went to check out the "hospital cave" where he VC kept hidden a military outpost for Cat Ba and a medical center.  They turned a huge cave into a hospital equipped with operating rooms, patient rooms, escape routes etc.  Pretty ingenious way to try to keep people safe and avoid the US bombing raids.

My favorite part of the day was the mountain biking excursion from the Cave to another town.  It was  at times challenging, and fun, but mostly beautiful and peaceful through out the ride.  We went through the national park, down a road, right on the coast.  A very nice way to see the beauty of this area.  Sadly across from where we were biking were signs about mines and unexploded ammunition.  Certainly war comes with a cost.

Eventually, made it back to Hanoi where a few hours later made it on to the overnight train.  I may report more on this later, but let me be clear, 14 hours on a train (where you have a bed in a sleeper car) beats 14 hours in a bus, plane, minivan, etc.  It was actually pleasant and I go a good nights sleep!

Pictures to follow...

Mystical Ha Long Bay

I came to Ha Long bay to see the famous (over 2000) islands. It is the kind of place that takes your breath away in pictures and in person would be truly amazing!   The plan was a three hour cruise through the tall, rocky islands, a short stop, some kayaking and the a cruise to our very swanky cool resort for a night. As is the usual for me, the weather wasnt cooperating. 

In return for dealing the cold and rainy overact day, I was treated to something even a little more special. The islands seemed to appear out of the mist and then fade back into it. Really a bit magical and mysterious. Not the way I had hoped to see the bay, but certainly a nice way to see it!

  The kayaking was great and we went through several tunnels and saw a few monkeys in the national park. 

Upon cruising up to our resort, it liked a bit dilapidated. I was shown pictures and it didn't look like it was going to measure up. I was so wrong. The placebos great, a bit fancy, and really kind of cool. Decked out with natural sometimes and teak wood, it's beautiful.  The best part? The wall is all windows so you can lie in bed and watch the sunrise. If the weather cooperates. 

I am sure  a hot shower, a good meal, and a warm bed (there are electric blankets), will get me ready to face the damp wet cold tomorrow as we go mountain biking in a national park on Cat Ba island! 

Hanging with Ho

I spent the day today seeing the sights of Hanoi. The weather wasn't great, one of those days where it was wet all day long, just kind of rainy and overcast.  I didn't let the bad weather stop me, I had some history to learn.  

I started the day off bay visit to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, House, and Museum.  Like all great communist leaders, Ho had wanted to be cremated.  The people he represented felt different.  So they preserved him.  So he lies in state perpetually in the purpose built mausoleum at the site of the Presidential Palace and his "Stilt House". The rules are simple, you are going to see a great leader, you must show respect.  Have your bags searched at four different security points, be watched by armed guards, and be sure to show the proper reverence. Basically once you are inside the mausoleum: no talking, no pictures, no phone, no hats, no pointing, no laughing, no hands in the pockets.  You walk around three sides of his body to give you the maximum view.  He lies in a glass sarcophagus and behind him is two red marble flags, the star of Vietnam, and the hammer and sickle.  In case you forget the rules there were 15 armed guards in the specific room with Ho. I have to say, he looks better than Lenin or Mao; apparently he heads to Russia for a couple of months each year to be "maintained". His suit is perfectly pressed, too.

Ho Chi Minh is certainly revered here.  The museum talks about his moral leadership as well as guiding the country to freedom and then unification.  Like other communist leaders, he seems to have been made into an important figure for the people to admire.  And, frankly, he was an impressive guy.  His whole life was dedicated to a united, unified, independent Vietnam.  This was why he worked for his whole life.   Now, one can argue that perhaps communism is not the best model for a country, but you can't argue with Ho's desire and commitment to make this happen.  This guy took on the world in his fight for his nation.  The French, the Japanese, the chinese, the soviets, the cambodians and of course the US.  He wasn't backing down from anyone.

From Ho's museum, I headed to the temple of literature, a place dedicated to learning and knowledge and the teachings of Confusius.  Set in a nice park, it would have been a little nicer without the rain!

The rest of the day was spent reading about Vietnamese history at their national museum.  While I know that the museum is putting its own and the governments spin on history, I found it really interesting to read about events of the Vietnam war (or here, the American War), from a very different perspective.  From their perspective, Ho is a hero and the US overstepped and was involved when they didn't need to be. And while I have never really understood why their was such a fear of Communism and its spread causing the Cold War, clearly that was the motivation to be here for so long.  There just seem to be so many similarities to our current situations, I can't help but acknowledge the idea that history does seem to repeat itself.  

I spent some time at the Hao Lo prison as well.  This was also known as the "Hanoi Hilton" during the war.  While much of it was been taken down, the city preserved a bit it for its historical value.  It was a prison long before the US involvement here, and was used for that again during the war.  Specifically it was used to house the US pilots who were captured when their planes were shot down over North Vietnam. Not a remarkable "sight" but well worth the visit to learn its history.  The propaganda inside was quick to mention that the US service men were treated well, that they had a good life, etc.  it even showed pictures of the GIs playing basketball and volleyball in the prison yards.  Different than the recollections of John McCain when he was a POW here.  The irony is not lost on me that in the area that used to be the Hanoi Hilton now stands the "Hanoi Tower", an office building and hotel.  

Overall a good day, fascinating for me to really try to learn and understand the history, the war, and the role the US played in Vietnam (from both perspectives).  Needless to say, I think I would have been a hippie, war-protester had I been alive in the '60s.

Hanoi: Classic Asia

Walking around the streets of Hanoi today was an intense experience.  The sights, the smells, the energy is pretty amazing.  It feels a bit like a throwback.  Watching movies about the so many Asian cities in the past, you get this picture of small alleyways, bustling with activity and energy, lots of bikes, and spoofs, and food stalls. 

This is inbfact what I have found in the Old Quarter of Hanoi.  It is full of energy. You can't walk out of your door without being overwhelmed with the intensity of it all.  There are people everywhere, there are food sops and food stalls with small tables all around.  The tree lines streets are narrow, but have buildings with interesting architecture, and the bikes have been replaced by scooters and motorbikes. This place was grew before there was any city planning!  There are no traffic lights and the streets are full of scooters, cars, and people.  Why people?  Because the sidewalks are full of "restaurants" and parking for the scooters.  There's some estimate that there are upwards of two million scooters! And I would believe it.  

You energy is amazing, but you need to keep your wits about you.  Besides All the people, you red to make sure that you are careful crossing the road.  Good thing we were told to "look both ways" because there is stuff Cming at you from all directions here.  Your unexpected movement is potentially going to cause a calamity here of the streets. The videos and pictures just don't do it justice. 

This is the Asia people imagine from the past, with a uniquely modern feel.  

Ps. Having trouble getting videos to load here!