Made it back to Phnom Penh with little fanfare last night. The three and a half hour van ride was really five, but I had somewhat expected that!
I checked into a well established guesthouse in the capital. What was such pleasant surprise was that this was the first place where you didn't need to slide the key into the slot on the wall for power when you are in the room. Why is this so exciting? Well you can have the AC on whie you get dinner, you can also charge some electronics as well. Since most the rooms have maybe one outlet to use, keeping everything charged has been a bit of a challenge.
I headed out for some food, some drinks, and found myself (somehow) at an after hours club. It was certainly a hot spot for Cambodians. Was home late, but not too late!
Today was about kicking back, doing some reading, perhaps some last minute shopping and then off to the Airport for my midnight flight to Korea.
Friday, March 22, 2013
Thursday, March 21, 2013
No shoes kind of day
So today I didn't wear shoes. At all. Not to go the restaurant, to the beach, to the bar, to my bungalow. Who needs shoes in a place like this.
I finished reading my fifth (or sixth) book of the trip and watched the best sunset of the last few weeks. Some times it takes going half way around the world, a few weeks, and a remote beach to really kick back. So glad I came here. Tomorrow it's off to Phnom Penh for the start of the journey home and back to work. Until then, though, it's about killing some time in the sand and sun. Without any shoes.
I finished reading my fifth (or sixth) book of the trip and watched the best sunset of the last few weeks. Some times it takes going half way around the world, a few weeks, and a remote beach to really kick back. So glad I came here. Tomorrow it's off to Phnom Penh for the start of the journey home and back to work. Until then, though, it's about killing some time in the sand and sun. Without any shoes.
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
Otres Beach: Perfection
Otres Beach is one of those places that you could stay indefinitely, and you know when you have to leave you will be sad. It is a 3km stretch of beach with two little communities on either end, that just sit on this calm water. The closer one is a bit "built up" than the further spot. If you can call it built up. We are talking huts on the beach. There is power, but it sporadically turns off. There are restaurants and bars, and for all of them you dont need a shirt or shoes for service. Beers are a buck and people are friendly. This quiet part of the Bay of Thailand is also warm. You can spend hours in the water and not get cold. Float, laugh, talk. The water is seriously warm.
My place has eight rooms, and an outstanding restaurant. The downside? Can't find one except this place is half way around the world from home. There's wifi when you want to get in touch and plenty of sun! You can walk along the beach to your hearts content. What a great way to spend a few days.
It's rustic, no AC, no TV. But a hut on the beach is sometimes all you need.
My place has eight rooms, and an outstanding restaurant. The downside? Can't find one except this place is half way around the world from home. There's wifi when you want to get in touch and plenty of sun! You can walk along the beach to your hearts content. What a great way to spend a few days.
It's rustic, no AC, no TV. But a hut on the beach is sometimes all you need.
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
Taking the long way to Otres Beach
So I took the wrong bus. Now don't get the wrong idea. I checked,and rechecked, my ticket to make sure I was on the right bus. Shame.
I got to the appointed bus office location at 11:30 as instructed for our midnight bus. I was kind of excited for my first sleeper bus ride! In all my bus journeys, I have never been on a sleeper bus. I had dreams of sheets and blankets although was going to be happy to settle for a long seat i could recline on. I was promised water and a toilet on board. And ten hours direct to Sihanoukville and the beach. I was ready with some snacks, some warm clothes and a great attitude.
What pulled up was what I would have expected had I not been made some promises! An old, a bit dilapidated bus, with no services and no toilets. Shame. I assumed I was a victim to the old bait and switch situation. I had purchased my ticket from an agent not the company and he made some promises. There was no choice. Get on, or don't. I decide to keep on my schedule and take the old bus, so it would be a rougher ride, no worries. For the record. I checked my ticket with four people to make sure I was on the right bus. Four people said yes. As the bus was pulling out and getting under way, I discovered that this was the 11:30 bus, not the 12:00. And that in fact the 12:00 bus, was the nice sleeper one. Shame.
Well it turns put that this bus was not going to Sihanoukville, and it took the round about way to get to Phnom Penh. But it got there, in about 7 hours. The good news, is that when I arrived in Phnom Penh, the 12:00 night bus riders were there too. That bus wasn't direct either! So there was a little monkey business going on after all! I don't want any of the blog followers to think Greyhound or Peter Pan quality. That is not all the level of theses buses. In fact far far far from it. Manageable and cheap, not comfortable or fast. And re,e,ber they stop every two hours or so to let you go to the bathroom. This one of course, just pulled o the side of the road. There were not anything fancy like a toilet. Once again glad to be a man!
In Phnom Penh we were told that our bus would be arriving soon (it was about 45 minutes). At this point though,no worries! Jumped on our second, non-VIP bus and we were off. For about five minutes. The we stopped and waited almost two hours for the bus to fill up. No sense going with out a full bus. Eventually got to the beach, jumped on the back of the Moto (below). And found the beach.It was so worth the nearly 27 hour journey from Laos!
I got to the appointed bus office location at 11:30 as instructed for our midnight bus. I was kind of excited for my first sleeper bus ride! In all my bus journeys, I have never been on a sleeper bus. I had dreams of sheets and blankets although was going to be happy to settle for a long seat i could recline on. I was promised water and a toilet on board. And ten hours direct to Sihanoukville and the beach. I was ready with some snacks, some warm clothes and a great attitude.
What pulled up was what I would have expected had I not been made some promises! An old, a bit dilapidated bus, with no services and no toilets. Shame. I assumed I was a victim to the old bait and switch situation. I had purchased my ticket from an agent not the company and he made some promises. There was no choice. Get on, or don't. I decide to keep on my schedule and take the old bus, so it would be a rougher ride, no worries. For the record. I checked my ticket with four people to make sure I was on the right bus. Four people said yes. As the bus was pulling out and getting under way, I discovered that this was the 11:30 bus, not the 12:00. And that in fact the 12:00 bus, was the nice sleeper one. Shame.
Well it turns put that this bus was not going to Sihanoukville, and it took the round about way to get to Phnom Penh. But it got there, in about 7 hours. The good news, is that when I arrived in Phnom Penh, the 12:00 night bus riders were there too. That bus wasn't direct either! So there was a little monkey business going on after all! I don't want any of the blog followers to think Greyhound or Peter Pan quality. That is not all the level of theses buses. In fact far far far from it. Manageable and cheap, not comfortable or fast. And re,e,ber they stop every two hours or so to let you go to the bathroom. This one of course, just pulled o the side of the road. There were not anything fancy like a toilet. Once again glad to be a man!
In Phnom Penh we were told that our bus would be arriving soon (it was about 45 minutes). At this point though,no worries! Jumped on our second, non-VIP bus and we were off. For about five minutes. The we stopped and waited almost two hours for the bus to fill up. No sense going with out a full bus. Eventually got to the beach, jumped on the back of the Moto (below). And found the beach.It was so worth the nearly 27 hour journey from Laos!
Monday, March 18, 2013
Deep and Cheap in Siem Reap
One thing about cambodia is that all the service type industry is very very cheap. Labor comes at a cost, but it seems here that the cost is very low.
I arrived safely at the airport (which is super nice by the way) purchased my third visa of the trip and made my way out to grab a cab back into the city. Figuring that it would be about seven bucks, not a huge deal. When I got to the desk to order the taxi (common I the developing world so people aren't overwhelmed by a taxi driver scrum), the man at the desk suggested that I only needed a Moto taxi. I figured a cab, or a tuk tuk, but he said no for two bucks I could take the Moto to town. With my backpack. So the back pack goes in the front of the driver, I sit behind with the little pack on and we weave and bob through traffic, cars, buses, tut tuks, motos. It is amazing. It doesn't really matter what lane you are in. or who is coming at upon. This was a first for me. On the back of a bike, with all my stuff. Dont worry, there were no helmets, so I could feel the wind in my hair and listen to the drivers sales pitch.
As part of the service industry, Cambodia is very bug on its massages. The "Khmer style" massages are cheap and everywhere. It is basically a it of reflexology, acupressure, and massage. The deal is that these people arent messing around. The really go after you, especially If your muscle is tender or sore. Talk about a deep tissue massage. They are quiet satisfying and actually feel very good. But as in the western world these massage places are sometimes a front for the flesh trade. Nearly every westerner is accosted walking down the street with offers of massages....and sometimes a bit more! You have to be careful!
I have found an organization in most major Cambodian cities called Seeing Hands. This group trains blind people in the art of the Khmer massage. And with them, it is really a massage. So I have been frequenting this place. It is nice to know what you are getting, it is nice to know I am helping support a great organization...I am doing my civic duty! I have been most days. After trekking around some temples, or walking a city, it is a nice way to end the day. Why so often? Well at five bucks an hour, how can you pass it up?
Night sleeper bus to Sihanoukville tonight. I am wondering what is all about!
I arrived safely at the airport (which is super nice by the way) purchased my third visa of the trip and made my way out to grab a cab back into the city. Figuring that it would be about seven bucks, not a huge deal. When I got to the desk to order the taxi (common I the developing world so people aren't overwhelmed by a taxi driver scrum), the man at the desk suggested that I only needed a Moto taxi. I figured a cab, or a tuk tuk, but he said no for two bucks I could take the Moto to town. With my backpack. So the back pack goes in the front of the driver, I sit behind with the little pack on and we weave and bob through traffic, cars, buses, tut tuks, motos. It is amazing. It doesn't really matter what lane you are in. or who is coming at upon. This was a first for me. On the back of a bike, with all my stuff. Dont worry, there were no helmets, so I could feel the wind in my hair and listen to the drivers sales pitch.
As part of the service industry, Cambodia is very bug on its massages. The "Khmer style" massages are cheap and everywhere. It is basically a it of reflexology, acupressure, and massage. The deal is that these people arent messing around. The really go after you, especially If your muscle is tender or sore. Talk about a deep tissue massage. They are quiet satisfying and actually feel very good. But as in the western world these massage places are sometimes a front for the flesh trade. Nearly every westerner is accosted walking down the street with offers of massages....and sometimes a bit more! You have to be careful!
I have found an organization in most major Cambodian cities called Seeing Hands. This group trains blind people in the art of the Khmer massage. And with them, it is really a massage. So I have been frequenting this place. It is nice to know what you are getting, it is nice to know I am helping support a great organization...I am doing my civic duty! I have been most days. After trekking around some temples, or walking a city, it is a nice way to end the day. Why so often? Well at five bucks an hour, how can you pass it up?
Night sleeper bus to Sihanoukville tonight. I am wondering what is all about!
Airport Security, Laos style
I spent the mornings lazily hanging around in Luang Prabang. Relaxed cities always give you the sense that's there's no urgency. I wanted up and down the main street, took in some of the landmarks for the last time, had a breakfast and a snack used up some of my Lao Kip (money), saving enough for a snack at the airport, did a little shopping and it was time to head to the airport.
Following the rules, I again get to their port a full two hours early. Now this is a small, international airport. Two gates. In other words tiny. I check in and you can see the two gates. I wander around the airport. There is no restaurant . There are no shops. It is an airport. Nothing else. So I sit outside in the chairs waiting until I am ready to be locked in behind security.
There is however, a restaurant across the street. The distance? He can something be across the street from an airport? It was closer than from my house to main street in Suffield. Much closer. I wander over there and buy some snacks for the afternoon and a coke and use up all of my leftover kip. And head to immigration and security to wait for my flight.
Immigration is no hassle, after a bunch of stamps here and there in my passport i move to security. Sadly, I am not able to take liquids through. So now I am stuck in no mans land. I can't go back out into the airport without buying another visa. I can't go into the gate with liquids. What to do. I am locked in a tiny little square. I have about a liter of water, and a coke. No worries, though, I am the only person. Not even a security person to help. I back up, intent on drinking my soda and water and taking my time when they tell me, only water is not allowed. The soda is! And I thought soda was a liquid!!!
I guzzled the water and went through the metal detectors. It beeps, but no one is worried and I grab my stuff and head to the gate. Maybe there arent alot of terrorism threats here in Luang Prabang, but this seemed like a very civilized checkpoint! Kept my shoes, my belt, and my watch, and of course my soda. And patiently wait for my flight back to Siem Reap.
This time, the flight has fourteen people on it. I bet we will be all clustered together in the back again, to balance the weight.
Addendum: while flying out of Luang Prabang, there was a new airport terminal nearing completion. That said, there were still only two gates!
Following the rules, I again get to their port a full two hours early. Now this is a small, international airport. Two gates. In other words tiny. I check in and you can see the two gates. I wander around the airport. There is no restaurant . There are no shops. It is an airport. Nothing else. So I sit outside in the chairs waiting until I am ready to be locked in behind security.
There is however, a restaurant across the street. The distance? He can something be across the street from an airport? It was closer than from my house to main street in Suffield. Much closer. I wander over there and buy some snacks for the afternoon and a coke and use up all of my leftover kip. And head to immigration and security to wait for my flight.
Immigration is no hassle, after a bunch of stamps here and there in my passport i move to security. Sadly, I am not able to take liquids through. So now I am stuck in no mans land. I can't go back out into the airport without buying another visa. I can't go into the gate with liquids. What to do. I am locked in a tiny little square. I have about a liter of water, and a coke. No worries, though, I am the only person. Not even a security person to help. I back up, intent on drinking my soda and water and taking my time when they tell me, only water is not allowed. The soda is! And I thought soda was a liquid!!!
I guzzled the water and went through the metal detectors. It beeps, but no one is worried and I grab my stuff and head to the gate. Maybe there arent alot of terrorism threats here in Luang Prabang, but this seemed like a very civilized checkpoint! Kept my shoes, my belt, and my watch, and of course my soda. And patiently wait for my flight back to Siem Reap.
This time, the flight has fourteen people on it. I bet we will be all clustered together in the back again, to balance the weight.
Addendum: while flying out of Luang Prabang, there was a new airport terminal nearing completion. That said, there were still only two gates!
Sunday, March 17, 2013
Slow boat, Great rope swing
Today was designated to see some of the areas around Luang Prabang. And enjoy my last full day in Laos. First stop: the Pak Ou caves. There is only one way to get here. That's on a slow boat up the Mekong. And they do mean slow. Now I understand that we are "sailing" against the current, but still. The boats are these long shallow contraptions, that seem to go all over the river on someones whim.
A few people I met chartered a boat to take us. Only it was actually two boats. How that happened, none of us are sure, but there were two boats that took the eight of us up the river. Four people were on the faster "slow boat" and the. Fry were on the slow "slow boat". I of course was on the slower of the slow boats. And they werent kidding. Besides cutting the motor for cell phone calls, we also picked up people along the river, much like the taxis and buses do...so much for a chartered boat!
The river is a pretty amazing body of water. We are currently in the dry season and the river is very very low. From what I could tell, about 20 feet lower than in the high season. The rocks that protrude everywhere are obviously at times covered and all through the river there are pilings to show where the rocks are. I can only image what this area is like when the river is high.
To be honest, the best art of the trip was the two hours boat ride. We stopped at the "whiskey village" which was nothing more than a twenty minute souvenir shopping stop. Although they do sell whiskey with snakes and scorpions in the bottle. The caves house over four thousand Buddha statues and may people come here to pray, but as a destination to travel two hours by boat to? A bit disappointing. After another 90 minutes back down the river, we we're back in Luang Prabang and ready to hit then water falls!
These falls are pretty famous (in Laos) and it is easy to see why. They are truly beautiful. It is a series of falls and pools all which are nice and unique and all the pools of water are this most amazing turquoise color. The main falls are about 100 feet high in a multi-tiered drop. The best part of it is that this is a swimming destination! There were people all over, jumping in,swimming, cooling off. And it felt great to do the same. The main (and favorite) pool had a rope swing. You can't go wrong with a rope swing! Other than jacking up my shoulder a bit, it was a blast! And what a break from the hot and hazy days in town. A couple of hours at the falls, was perfect.
A few people I met chartered a boat to take us. Only it was actually two boats. How that happened, none of us are sure, but there were two boats that took the eight of us up the river. Four people were on the faster "slow boat" and the. Fry were on the slow "slow boat". I of course was on the slower of the slow boats. And they werent kidding. Besides cutting the motor for cell phone calls, we also picked up people along the river, much like the taxis and buses do...so much for a chartered boat!
The river is a pretty amazing body of water. We are currently in the dry season and the river is very very low. From what I could tell, about 20 feet lower than in the high season. The rocks that protrude everywhere are obviously at times covered and all through the river there are pilings to show where the rocks are. I can only image what this area is like when the river is high.
To be honest, the best art of the trip was the two hours boat ride. We stopped at the "whiskey village" which was nothing more than a twenty minute souvenir shopping stop. Although they do sell whiskey with snakes and scorpions in the bottle. The caves house over four thousand Buddha statues and may people come here to pray, but as a destination to travel two hours by boat to? A bit disappointing. After another 90 minutes back down the river, we we're back in Luang Prabang and ready to hit then water falls!
These falls are pretty famous (in Laos) and it is easy to see why. They are truly beautiful. It is a series of falls and pools all which are nice and unique and all the pools of water are this most amazing turquoise color. The main falls are about 100 feet high in a multi-tiered drop. The best part of it is that this is a swimming destination! There were people all over, jumping in,swimming, cooling off. And it felt great to do the same. The main (and favorite) pool had a rope swing. You can't go wrong with a rope swing! Other than jacking up my shoulder a bit, it was a blast! And what a break from the hot and hazy days in town. A couple of hours at the falls, was perfect.
Saturday, March 16, 2013
Spicy Laos
Today I took a Lao cooking class. I know, I know, I don't do too much actual cooking these days, but I like to do it and I thought this would be a fun way to spend the day! I was right.
After a short trip to the market to learn how to choose foods, we were whisked away to the cooking school which was out of town in a beautiful location. Lao cooking is strong on the fresh herbs and sticky rice.
Our instructor starts by asking if we like spicy foods. The four of us say yes. He then says " American spicy or Lao spivey?". Let's just say that these people love there chilis. All those little peppers that make your eyes water. My sauce had four of these peppers in it. And that was just the start.
In Laos, sticky rice is balled up and eaten by hand, so we were making a sauce to dip it in. I choose a tomato based sauce ( vs the eggplant). Good choice for me. It ended p being a spicy salsa type sauce that we ate with the rice.
We cooked three types of meat. Fish (steamed in a banana leaf), chicken stuffed in lemongrass, and the some buffalo ( which was like a Lao meatloaf). Each dish was highly seasoned with fresh garlic, shallots, lemongrass, dill, coriander, scallions, and a whole bunch of other leafy type herbs. The Lao people apparently like their salt too! It was perfect for me.
We prepped and chopped and mashed and ground things up all morning. Apparently the best way to do this was in a heavy duty mortar and pestle. Mixed in the meat and the sat down to feast. And it was spicy. But some of the best food I have had in a long while. And did I mention spicy? Apparently, Lao cooking isn't for the faint of heart, weak of stomach, or those who prefer bland food!
Ended the day with a couple of beers watching the best sunset of the trip over the Mekong river. No way I can't love my life right now!
After a short trip to the market to learn how to choose foods, we were whisked away to the cooking school which was out of town in a beautiful location. Lao cooking is strong on the fresh herbs and sticky rice.
Our instructor starts by asking if we like spicy foods. The four of us say yes. He then says " American spicy or Lao spivey?". Let's just say that these people love there chilis. All those little peppers that make your eyes water. My sauce had four of these peppers in it. And that was just the start.
In Laos, sticky rice is balled up and eaten by hand, so we were making a sauce to dip it in. I choose a tomato based sauce ( vs the eggplant). Good choice for me. It ended p being a spicy salsa type sauce that we ate with the rice.
We cooked three types of meat. Fish (steamed in a banana leaf), chicken stuffed in lemongrass, and the some buffalo ( which was like a Lao meatloaf). Each dish was highly seasoned with fresh garlic, shallots, lemongrass, dill, coriander, scallions, and a whole bunch of other leafy type herbs. The Lao people apparently like their salt too! It was perfect for me.
We prepped and chopped and mashed and ground things up all morning. Apparently the best way to do this was in a heavy duty mortar and pestle. Mixed in the meat and the sat down to feast. And it was spicy. But some of the best food I have had in a long while. And did I mention spicy? Apparently, Lao cooking isn't for the faint of heart, weak of stomach, or those who prefer bland food!
Ended the day with a couple of beers watching the best sunset of the trip over the Mekong river. No way I can't love my life right now!
Friday, March 15, 2013
Where the Mekong meets the Nam Khan....
....is the town of Luang Prabang. This UNESCO heritage site is a laid back and relaxed city, which was once the home to the Laotian kings. The historical part of the city is a peninsula between the two rivers. It is here that the most famous monastery and temples are found. While Vientiane may be the official capital, but it is easy to see why Luang Prabang is it's heart.
There is not a lot going on here, and that is how the Laotians like it. No buses are allowed in the city center, and it retains a lot of its colonial architecture. And by that, I mean two story buildings of cement or plaster with wood roofs. Due to the number of temples and monasteries here, it is also home to a huge number of monks and Monks in Training. They are everywhere, dressed in their bright orange robes and saved heads.
I spent the day on a walking tour of the city, checking out the main sights, mostly temples or wats. They are a quiet and effective place and my day was sent meandering through the city. The rivers are muddy and low, but are beautiful and the cliffs are lined with restaurants and cafes on patios under the trees. It is truly beautiful. The low key vibe of the place makes you want to sit and watch the world go by, although that seems to be only a few tourists. Luang Prabang is a famous place, but not so prevalent on the tourist trail. After Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, it is a nice change of pace.
So I wandered. And explored the city at my own pace. And I drank some coffee. And beer. And totally chilled in a Laotian kind of way.
There is not a lot going on here, and that is how the Laotians like it. No buses are allowed in the city center, and it retains a lot of its colonial architecture. And by that, I mean two story buildings of cement or plaster with wood roofs. Due to the number of temples and monasteries here, it is also home to a huge number of monks and Monks in Training. They are everywhere, dressed in their bright orange robes and saved heads.
I spent the day on a walking tour of the city, checking out the main sights, mostly temples or wats. They are a quiet and effective place and my day was sent meandering through the city. The rivers are muddy and low, but are beautiful and the cliffs are lined with restaurants and cafes on patios under the trees. It is truly beautiful. The low key vibe of the place makes you want to sit and watch the world go by, although that seems to be only a few tourists. Luang Prabang is a famous place, but not so prevalent on the tourist trail. After Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, it is a nice change of pace.
So I wandered. And explored the city at my own pace. And I drank some coffee. And beer. And totally chilled in a Laotian kind of way.
Wednesday, March 13, 2013
Laos, Here I come!
I bought a plane ticket from a guy with no shirt on today. Weird, I know. I tried to buy my plane tickets on line last night, but was having trouble with the Lao Airlines site. First thing this morning I went to a "travel agent" for some help, since I was flying today. Apparently he lives in his shop, and his worker wasn't sure how to book a return plane ticket. Hmmm. Either way, the owner knew (I hope) and I paid him cash for what looks like and official voucher. (I will let you be the judge.) Flying Vietnam airways direct! Should be an experience. Made me think of one of my favorite quotes:
"International travel requires an occasional willingness to cut the deck and place an immense trust in strangers.". --Chuck Thompson
I just wish he was wearing a shirt.
"International travel requires an occasional willingness to cut the deck and place an immense trust in strangers.". --Chuck Thompson
I just wish he was wearing a shirt.
What? Another Wat?
Today was filled with yet again inspired and inspiring temples. In some ways the number of these Wats is overwhelming. I can safely say that I managed to see all the major destinations at Angkor, in my three days of touring these monuments!
I was heading much further out today from the center of the main touristy types places. Sure there are lots of people still but these more remote sites are different, and in some ways more unique than you would think. My tuk tuk driver suggested we go early, at 6:00. There is something nice about seeing the city wake up and to explore some temples in much cooler air. The first stop was Banteay Samre. While itself not all that impressive, it has been well restored. What made this place special was that I was the first person there. Before th other tourists, before the women hawking water and scarves. Before the kids selling post cards, I was there. The quiet and serene feeling, makes you remember that these are temples to the gods. It was truly remarkable. A few minutes of quiet reflection...
On to our next stop and again we beat the fifty or so tour buses that pulled in about twenty minutes after we arrived. While Banteay Srei is a smaller temple, it is pinkinsh in color and has a much more detailed carvings. Again, amazing in the quiet, a little overwhelming with the crowds.
The ride to the next place was about 90 minutes. The ride on the back of the tuk tuk may not always be smooth but I was Alberto see much of the rural of cambodia. The rice fields. The houses on stilts. Selling gas out of soda and booze bottles. The poverty. The damage to people from landmines. It is amazing that the Cambodian people remain as positive and friendly as they do.
Beng Malea is a large temple far from where the others were built. This place has not been restored at all. It lies in rubble. You can see the majesty of it (modeled after Angkor Wat itself) but this is the real deal. It is as much in "the jungle" as a temple can be, with very little work done on it. It made me think of old actresses without plastic surgery, they were beautiful and there is a different kind of beauty now. The best part of this is that you can climb all over the fallen walls and towers and explore this temple by scrambling over rocks. It was fun. Not so safe, or not safe at all, really. But fun. I was standing on top of walls, climbing to the top of towers. Only sad I was able to get some cool pictures. I came to realize that preserving both the restored and unrestored ruins is important. And this way I could feel like Indiana Jones.
We finished the day off at some of the oldest smaller temples. What a great way to end my time at Angkor!
I was heading much further out today from the center of the main touristy types places. Sure there are lots of people still but these more remote sites are different, and in some ways more unique than you would think. My tuk tuk driver suggested we go early, at 6:00. There is something nice about seeing the city wake up and to explore some temples in much cooler air. The first stop was Banteay Samre. While itself not all that impressive, it has been well restored. What made this place special was that I was the first person there. Before th other tourists, before the women hawking water and scarves. Before the kids selling post cards, I was there. The quiet and serene feeling, makes you remember that these are temples to the gods. It was truly remarkable. A few minutes of quiet reflection...
On to our next stop and again we beat the fifty or so tour buses that pulled in about twenty minutes after we arrived. While Banteay Srei is a smaller temple, it is pinkinsh in color and has a much more detailed carvings. Again, amazing in the quiet, a little overwhelming with the crowds.
The ride to the next place was about 90 minutes. The ride on the back of the tuk tuk may not always be smooth but I was Alberto see much of the rural of cambodia. The rice fields. The houses on stilts. Selling gas out of soda and booze bottles. The poverty. The damage to people from landmines. It is amazing that the Cambodian people remain as positive and friendly as they do.
Beng Malea is a large temple far from where the others were built. This place has not been restored at all. It lies in rubble. You can see the majesty of it (modeled after Angkor Wat itself) but this is the real deal. It is as much in "the jungle" as a temple can be, with very little work done on it. It made me think of old actresses without plastic surgery, they were beautiful and there is a different kind of beauty now. The best part of this is that you can climb all over the fallen walls and towers and explore this temple by scrambling over rocks. It was fun. Not so safe, or not safe at all, really. But fun. I was standing on top of walls, climbing to the top of towers. Only sad I was able to get some cool pictures. I came to realize that preserving both the restored and unrestored ruins is important. And this way I could feel like Indiana Jones.
We finished the day off at some of the oldest smaller temples. What a great way to end my time at Angkor!
Tuesday, March 12, 2013
Angkor Wat at Dawn
If yesterday was amazing, then today was extraordinary. While yesterday I decided to go to the outer temples, saving the big ones for today. I did what is known as the "big tour" on a bike. It was exactly how I wanted to see these temples. Today, however, was different. I wanted to see the famed Angkor Wat at sunrise. And I am so glad I did.
Much like last night when I went to see sunset over Angkor Wat, the weather was not in my favor. This seems to be a usual situation for me when I am traveling. That said it was still a remarkable way to start the day. There is something mystical about arriving at this site early in the morning. I wasn't able to even see the monument, and although I was surrounded by hundreds of others, it still seemed peaceful. I hadn't properly seen the temple before today, and so it was perfect to start to see it as the sky slowly got lighter. The silhouette came through and finally some of the details. Truly beautiful. The sky didn't turn the brilliant colors I had hoped, but the peaceful and calm exuded was what I was really looking for. Once it seemed that the even was over, the magic truly happened. The bright red disc of the sun started to peek out from behind the temple and slowly rose into the sky. That was the moment I knew I was truly somewhere special.
After exploring e temple itself, I moved on with my tuk-tuk driver to Angkor Thom. This old walled city was at once a home to a million people at the time that London and Paris were about 50,000. The Bayon temple is striking for its 256 faces (four on every tower) that look at you from every direction. It is hard not o love his place. It's restoration is ongoing but it is still pretty cool as it is. I wandered through the rest of of Angkor Thom, seeing a tremendous number of structures. It would have been a truly remarkable city. My tuk-tuk driver always seemed ready and was happily feeding me water bottle after water bottle. (Both yesterday and today, I drank over five liters if water). Its pretty hot and humid here...but what would you expect from southeast Asia?
After exploring several other smaller temples, we finally hit on one of the most interesting. Ta Prohm. Ta Prohm is one of these places you can't describe in words and really convey the sense off the place and the pictures can never really do it justice. Basically, like most of the other temples, it was over run by the jungle. In this case the cleaned up a lot of it, but there are the amazing trees that have taken over many of the walls and structures. They can't remove the tree with out the walls falling down. It seems that nature is taking over again! They are undergoing continued massive restoration of this temple and it is truly remarkable.Trees and walls all functioning as one.
It is hard to put into words the sheer volume of structures here at Angkor Wat. it is not one or two impressive places, but many. I was out looking at temples yesterday for eight hours, today for twelve, and tomorrow for another twelve. As I watched the cranes moving some of the stone work during restoration efforts today, I could help but think of the commitment that these people had to building monuments to their gods. I do know that these remain pretty quiet and peaceful places. And the are truly remarkable.
Much like last night when I went to see sunset over Angkor Wat, the weather was not in my favor. This seems to be a usual situation for me when I am traveling. That said it was still a remarkable way to start the day. There is something mystical about arriving at this site early in the morning. I wasn't able to even see the monument, and although I was surrounded by hundreds of others, it still seemed peaceful. I hadn't properly seen the temple before today, and so it was perfect to start to see it as the sky slowly got lighter. The silhouette came through and finally some of the details. Truly beautiful. The sky didn't turn the brilliant colors I had hoped, but the peaceful and calm exuded was what I was really looking for. Once it seemed that the even was over, the magic truly happened. The bright red disc of the sun started to peek out from behind the temple and slowly rose into the sky. That was the moment I knew I was truly somewhere special.
After exploring e temple itself, I moved on with my tuk-tuk driver to Angkor Thom. This old walled city was at once a home to a million people at the time that London and Paris were about 50,000. The Bayon temple is striking for its 256 faces (four on every tower) that look at you from every direction. It is hard not o love his place. It's restoration is ongoing but it is still pretty cool as it is. I wandered through the rest of of Angkor Thom, seeing a tremendous number of structures. It would have been a truly remarkable city. My tuk-tuk driver always seemed ready and was happily feeding me water bottle after water bottle. (Both yesterday and today, I drank over five liters if water). Its pretty hot and humid here...but what would you expect from southeast Asia?
After exploring several other smaller temples, we finally hit on one of the most interesting. Ta Prohm. Ta Prohm is one of these places you can't describe in words and really convey the sense off the place and the pictures can never really do it justice. Basically, like most of the other temples, it was over run by the jungle. In this case the cleaned up a lot of it, but there are the amazing trees that have taken over many of the walls and structures. They can't remove the tree with out the walls falling down. It seems that nature is taking over again! They are undergoing continued massive restoration of this temple and it is truly remarkable.Trees and walls all functioning as one.
It is hard to put into words the sheer volume of structures here at Angkor Wat. it is not one or two impressive places, but many. I was out looking at temples yesterday for eight hours, today for twelve, and tomorrow for another twelve. As I watched the cranes moving some of the stone work during restoration efforts today, I could help but think of the commitment that these people had to building monuments to their gods. I do know that these remain pretty quiet and peaceful places. And the are truly remarkable.
Monday, March 11, 2013
Temples of Angkor
One important landmark/monument that I have wanted to see for a long time has been Angkor Wat. This is one of those sights that defies description, according to most accounts I have heard. Interestingly, Angkor Wat is a temple. The area however is littered with temples, and it is a big area. I could compAre it to Luxor in Egypt, where there are lots of tongs to see, a bit spread out, all different, but all impressive.
I decided to save the big ones, Angkor Wat, and Angkor Thom/Bayon, for tomorrow. Today was about taking some time and exploring the smaller lesser known temples. They are all in differing states of restoration, and they all have their own unique and magical feel. To get around the temples I decided to forgo renting a tuk-tuk, and instead rented a mountain bike. this was the perfect way for me to enjoy the day. Took my time moving from one site to another and ended upi seeing eight different places. Don't get me wrong, these places are big. Very big, with a tremendous amount of stone, all which was quarried 30 miles from these sites.
My favorite part of the temples today was that they were at times overgrown, that the jungle was encroaching back to the temples, and I some places the trees and temples had grown together where they were dependent on each other for strength.
It is really hard to imagine all these place at their prime. It is also hard to imagine the feeling of the guy who Rediscovered them on 1860. This is truly a man made wonder of the world. And I haven't seen the major ones yet!
I decided to save the big ones, Angkor Wat, and Angkor Thom/Bayon, for tomorrow. Today was about taking some time and exploring the smaller lesser known temples. They are all in differing states of restoration, and they all have their own unique and magical feel. To get around the temples I decided to forgo renting a tuk-tuk, and instead rented a mountain bike. this was the perfect way for me to enjoy the day. Took my time moving from one site to another and ended upi seeing eight different places. Don't get me wrong, these places are big. Very big, with a tremendous amount of stone, all which was quarried 30 miles from these sites.
My favorite part of the temples today was that they were at times overgrown, that the jungle was encroaching back to the temples, and I some places the trees and temples had grown together where they were dependent on each other for strength.
It is really hard to imagine all these place at their prime. It is also hard to imagine the feeling of the guy who Rediscovered them on 1860. This is truly a man made wonder of the world. And I haven't seen the major ones yet!
Sunday, March 10, 2013
The Killing Fields
Part of any trip to Cambodia must include some time learning about and seeing the devastation perpetrated on millions of people by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge regime. For just under four years the Khmer Rouge ruled the country, enslaved its people, tortured and killed many of its most well educated and wealthy citizens. It is estimated that any where between one to three million people were killed. (the large discrepancy on numbers is based on different estimates and accounting for people differently.)
Pol Pot wanted the entire society to be agrarian and forced the majority of people into the rural areas to subsistence farm and the conditions were terrible and many died.
Toul Sleng Prison: formerly the site of a high school, this was turned into a notorious prison and torture center for the Khmer Rouge. It was run by a man namd Duch, who is responsible for sending at least ten thousand people to their deaths. The Khmer Rouge, much like the Nazis were meticulous in their record keeping, and much of this museum's powerful displays are walls and walls of hundreds ( if not thousands) of mugshots of the people who went through the prison. Men. Women. Children. All of whom were killed. It is said that there were only seven prisoners who came out alive. Two of whom are in the courtyard to talk about their experiences. They were all spared do to some special skills that were valuable to Duch and the leadership.
Once tortured, prisoners were taken the the killing fields in outside of Phnom Penh (one of three hundred such sites in Cambodia). 17,000 were put to death here. The majority of them were brought at night and didn't last a day. They were shot, most were bludgeoned to death with machetes, hammers, car axles, etc. Some had their necks cut and bled out. Most were stripped, valuables taken but thrown into mass graves blindfolded. This particular area had been excavated, with about 9000bodies exhumed. You can see the pits in the ground. Most unsettling here, though, was that there were still bones and clothing that were surfacing. Walking on the paths you would see bones sticking up, you could find pieces of bones and teeth on the ground, as well as some of the cloth used to blindfold prisoners. Periodically staff will collect any remains that they can find. It was a bit overwhelming. I have some pictures attached. Most of the large bones of the 9000 exhumed bodies have been examined and are kept in the peace pagoda I. The site.
The most moving exhibit of the day for me was at the prison. The curators had the opportunity to interview former guards (and perhaps torturers) at the prison. These were people who were teenagers when they joined the Khmer Rouge. They joined for several reasons: better food, better treatment, money, lifestyle. They spoke about their crimes and needing to pay for them. Many of these people had been in prison. They all took responsibility for their roles, but most stated that they didn't know what they were getting into, and that they were following orders. These were teenagers trying to figure out how to stay alive. Most acknowledge that following orders doesn't absolve them, but it helps to explain it. Also palpable in the interviews were their frustration that the Khmer Rouge leaders remained free after they lost power. Very few of the top echelon of leaders served any time even though they were found guilty of genocide. The Khmer Rouge played a role in Cambodia's politics for many years after they lost control.
Cambodia choose a model of reconciliation and forgiveness. ( it reminded me of South Africa.) this allowed the leaders to stay out of prison, although the top four living leaders have been arrested and their trials are on going. All told an informative and moving day. Genocide continues to plague the earth, and places like Cambodia, Rwanda, and others should be reminders to us all, that the world community needs to act to prevent this from occurring again.
Pol Pot wanted the entire society to be agrarian and forced the majority of people into the rural areas to subsistence farm and the conditions were terrible and many died.
Toul Sleng Prison: formerly the site of a high school, this was turned into a notorious prison and torture center for the Khmer Rouge. It was run by a man namd Duch, who is responsible for sending at least ten thousand people to their deaths. The Khmer Rouge, much like the Nazis were meticulous in their record keeping, and much of this museum's powerful displays are walls and walls of hundreds ( if not thousands) of mugshots of the people who went through the prison. Men. Women. Children. All of whom were killed. It is said that there were only seven prisoners who came out alive. Two of whom are in the courtyard to talk about their experiences. They were all spared do to some special skills that were valuable to Duch and the leadership.
Once tortured, prisoners were taken the the killing fields in outside of Phnom Penh (one of three hundred such sites in Cambodia). 17,000 were put to death here. The majority of them were brought at night and didn't last a day. They were shot, most were bludgeoned to death with machetes, hammers, car axles, etc. Some had their necks cut and bled out. Most were stripped, valuables taken but thrown into mass graves blindfolded. This particular area had been excavated, with about 9000bodies exhumed. You can see the pits in the ground. Most unsettling here, though, was that there were still bones and clothing that were surfacing. Walking on the paths you would see bones sticking up, you could find pieces of bones and teeth on the ground, as well as some of the cloth used to blindfold prisoners. Periodically staff will collect any remains that they can find. It was a bit overwhelming. I have some pictures attached. Most of the large bones of the 9000 exhumed bodies have been examined and are kept in the peace pagoda I. The site.
The most moving exhibit of the day for me was at the prison. The curators had the opportunity to interview former guards (and perhaps torturers) at the prison. These were people who were teenagers when they joined the Khmer Rouge. They joined for several reasons: better food, better treatment, money, lifestyle. They spoke about their crimes and needing to pay for them. Many of these people had been in prison. They all took responsibility for their roles, but most stated that they didn't know what they were getting into, and that they were following orders. These were teenagers trying to figure out how to stay alive. Most acknowledge that following orders doesn't absolve them, but it helps to explain it. Also palpable in the interviews were their frustration that the Khmer Rouge leaders remained free after they lost power. Very few of the top echelon of leaders served any time even though they were found guilty of genocide. The Khmer Rouge played a role in Cambodia's politics for many years after they lost control.
Cambodia choose a model of reconciliation and forgiveness. ( it reminded me of South Africa.) this allowed the leaders to stay out of prison, although the top four living leaders have been arrested and their trials are on going. All told an informative and moving day. Genocide continues to plague the earth, and places like Cambodia, Rwanda, and others should be reminders to us all, that the world community needs to act to prevent this from occurring again.
Saturday, March 09, 2013
Cambodia: Land of the Khmer
After some long flights and getting in so late, I decided to take a couple of days to explore Phnom Penh. I just thought a couple of days in the capital would be a good way to start it all off. After a bit of a sleep in, I took off to explore the National Museum, the Royal Palace, and a couple of local wats (temples). It was a long day of walking, but lots of offers from tuk-tuk drivers to take me where ever I wanted to go.
Just after I left my hotel, I was stooped in the street by a guy walking by. He noticed my USA hat and wanted to chat. Normally I would have kept on walking, but something about this guy made me stop. He said he knew the capitals of all fifty states. And he did. In fact he could do them in alphabetical order. After we got to about "I", I asked him about his knowledge. Turns out he had a fascinating story about being in school in 1965 taking a test on the US capitals when the bombing in Vietnam commenced. This US bombing changed his life. From trying to escape the communists, to becoming a prisoner of war, to escaping and working in a casino in Macau, I was engrossed! We made some loo plans to meet up against I could hear the rest of the story. I hope I see him again.
It was a perfect start to a day of understanding Khmer culture and lifestyle, learning pre 1970s history. The Khmer were a powerful people in southeast Asia. Their culture was infused with both Buddhist and Hindu beliefs and this is represented in almost all there art, and architecture. One of the most prominent sculptures you will see (besides various renditions of Buddha, Vishnu, and Krishna) is Naga. Naga is a serpent with a whole bunch of heads. Naga seems to be at the entrance to everything. The National Museum is full of statues and sculptures that have been rescued from temples and unearthed all over the country. It is an open air museum, and it's collections somehow escaped total destruction by the Khmer Rouge regime. Not large, but certainly noteworthy.
A walk north brought me to Wat Phnom, set high ( relatively speaking in this very flat city)on a hill. It is a favorite of locals. The come to pray of help and then bring offerings of flowers for thanks.
The Royal Palace: it was remarkable. It has everything a palace should have: throne room, kings residence, Banquet hall, temple, etc. and it is beautiful. The throne room is a large open air building with itching in it but a throne. The architecture is so different and so impressive. But the most impressive part of this collection of buildings was the Silver Pagoda. Why silver? Well the floor was made of 5000 plates of silver. Some were on display but the majority were under rugs for protection. Inside this pagoda was a majestic Jade Buddha. He sits atop a large dais and is stunning. But what I found ore interesting was the solid gold Buddha statue. This statue was about my size...both in height and weight. It was adorned with about 10,000 diamonds. The largest being about 25 carats. Really impressive.
After enjoying this and a really expensive (but delicious) cup of coffee, I headed back to the hotel to reorganize, shower and head to dinner. I don't think I had conquered my jet lag, as I ended sleeping at 7:00ish until the morning!
Just after I left my hotel, I was stooped in the street by a guy walking by. He noticed my USA hat and wanted to chat. Normally I would have kept on walking, but something about this guy made me stop. He said he knew the capitals of all fifty states. And he did. In fact he could do them in alphabetical order. After we got to about "I", I asked him about his knowledge. Turns out he had a fascinating story about being in school in 1965 taking a test on the US capitals when the bombing in Vietnam commenced. This US bombing changed his life. From trying to escape the communists, to becoming a prisoner of war, to escaping and working in a casino in Macau, I was engrossed! We made some loo plans to meet up against I could hear the rest of the story. I hope I see him again.
It was a perfect start to a day of understanding Khmer culture and lifestyle, learning pre 1970s history. The Khmer were a powerful people in southeast Asia. Their culture was infused with both Buddhist and Hindu beliefs and this is represented in almost all there art, and architecture. One of the most prominent sculptures you will see (besides various renditions of Buddha, Vishnu, and Krishna) is Naga. Naga is a serpent with a whole bunch of heads. Naga seems to be at the entrance to everything. The National Museum is full of statues and sculptures that have been rescued from temples and unearthed all over the country. It is an open air museum, and it's collections somehow escaped total destruction by the Khmer Rouge regime. Not large, but certainly noteworthy.
A walk north brought me to Wat Phnom, set high ( relatively speaking in this very flat city)on a hill. It is a favorite of locals. The come to pray of help and then bring offerings of flowers for thanks.
The Royal Palace: it was remarkable. It has everything a palace should have: throne room, kings residence, Banquet hall, temple, etc. and it is beautiful. The throne room is a large open air building with itching in it but a throne. The architecture is so different and so impressive. But the most impressive part of this collection of buildings was the Silver Pagoda. Why silver? Well the floor was made of 5000 plates of silver. Some were on display but the majority were under rugs for protection. Inside this pagoda was a majestic Jade Buddha. He sits atop a large dais and is stunning. But what I found ore interesting was the solid gold Buddha statue. This statue was about my size...both in height and weight. It was adorned with about 10,000 diamonds. The largest being about 25 carats. Really impressive.
After enjoying this and a really expensive (but delicious) cup of coffee, I headed back to the hotel to reorganize, shower and head to dinner. I don't think I had conquered my jet lag, as I ended sleeping at 7:00ish until the morning!
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