Volcan Cotopaxi is Unforgiving

One of the highlights of my trip to Ecuador was going to be spending some time hiking on Volcan Cotopaxi. It is described as a sleepy volcano, that occasionally spits gases and smoke, last erupted in the 1870s and is very close to downtown Quito. At almost 6000m high, this is no slouch of a mountain. You have to be good and ready to take it on. I was. After much deliberation, I decide that I would do a day trip to the mountain and hike to the refuge at 4800m. Very close to the glacier that sits atop. Somehow there was confusion and I ended up booking on a mountain biking tour. Cotopaxi 1, Greg 0. Once I managed to take a deep breath and get excited about the mountain biking trip i was on my way. I have previously described the Quito weather, and although they claim you can see Cotopaxi from the city, she has always been shrouded in clouds. I mean, so have all the mountains. Word on the street, however, was that the refuge and parking area are in the other side of the mountain and it is sunny there. We will see. So we drive. When you get to the turn off for the national park, you must take a local guide with you who is required to drive your vehicle. While this may seem a bit strange, it isn't really, and it helps the local economy. According my my guide from Quito, the president declared that all national parks should be free for everyone recently, as he felt the prices were keeping the ecuadorians from enjoying their national parks. Great news! No fees! (The exception is the Galapagos, at a hundred bucks). There has been a lot of rain in the area recently and the rains running down the mountains have really destroyed the quality of the road. It is a dirt/gravel road anyway, but the rain did a number on it. It was repaired but it rained again last night. We drove through a river, the bridge was out, around the road that had been ripped apart by water rushing down for the mountains, and then we got stopped for about 40 minutes, while men with axes and shovels worked to repair the road so traffic could flow. By traffic we are talking about five cars or so. Another one for the volcano. Road fixed, we journey on. Up and up and up. The sun starts to shine, we get to a beautiful spot for take pictures of the mountains to see the summit, still cloudy. We continue. All the way to the parking area at 4500m. I have never been that high while on the ground before. Since this is over 10,000feet, I kept thinking that I was now permitted to use approved portable electronic devices! When we arrive to the parking lot, the clouds are in full force. When inside these clouds, they are pelting you with water that feels like little ice particles (probably were), it is blustery, and very very cold. Four layers, a hat, two pairs of gloves, sunglasses cold. That's a W for the volcano. We soon start our descent. I am on a trek mountain bike that is sized pretty well and shifts! We ride seven km down the side of a volcano. Pretty awesome really. Rocks, grass, mud,sand, it was great. We meet up at 3800m to regroup, and get our plan for the day. Another ten km of riding and some lunch on the schedule. No problem I think, ten k? That is only six miles! Let's just say that ten k at 3800m is different than in Suffield. And mountain biking is not racing. It was great. We were all over the national park and I was loving it. I couldnt really breathe, though (Serious lack of oxygen at that high when you are not used to it). I feel like I am in decent shape but the mountain was kicking my butt. (I was still ahead of the others on the tour so I was ok.) Then Cotopaxi brought out her big guns, the wind and the rain. While we are riding, it starts to rain. A lot. And the wind picks up. And the clouds roll in. It gets really tough now. Find that resolve to push through up hills and downhills, over rocks, grass, and mud. We finally get to where we are planning to have lunch. Mercifully we eat in a hovel, but the rain stops and it looks like we will finish the day with the sun shining. Moods improve and everyone is happy. The clouds seem to be disappearing and we cautiously hope for a peek at the summit. We eat, drink some ginger tea (supposed to help with altitude), and our about to get on our way and she brings back the rain to travel with us! We are now riding through some little streams as well. Oh Cotopaxi, you teased us! Finally the ride comes to an end and we are caught in a bit of a downpour as we re rack the bikes and climb in the van, just as the sun starts to shine again. I ripped my pants at some point too! We head to see a glacier made lake, and the sun is warming our faces. We rest for ten minutes enjoying a bit of warmth. The clouds seems almost ready, again, to show us the mountain. But they dont and we are forced to head home with only a tease of the beauty of the place. . I came away with having really enjoyed the day. I like mountain biking and this reminded me of that. I loved being in the park. It was beautiful. I can only imagine what it could be like if it was warm and sunny. It falls in line with a number of my hikes which lead to wonderful views of clouds. And just as I was reveling in the greatness of the day, Cotopaxi played her final hand. My face, the only part that was exposed today, SUNBURNED. With all the rain and clouds. Amazing. Well played, Cotopaxi, well played. For all you blog watchers out there, I am leaving early in the morning for six days on a boat in the Galapagos islands. I am not sure if I will have any Internet connection. Check back but expect much until the 18th-19th.